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bleeding clutch.

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Old 09-15-2008, 03:39 PM   #1
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Default bleeding clutch.

i just installed a new slave cylinder and im having trouble getting that "comfortable" feeling with the clutch pedal. and by "comfortable" feeling i mean, sometimes it wont even return and if it does the clutch doesnt feel like it starts engaging until that last 1/4 of the pedal.
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Old 09-15-2008, 04:48 PM   #2
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Bleeding might be a good idea. There's a small bleeding valve(same as for brakes) on the left side of a gearbox. Actually i repaired my clutch by removing a rubbish inlay from the main cylinder cap.
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Old 09-15-2008, 06:45 PM   #3
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Hey if yours is the slave that goes around the trans input then i feel for you i had a hard time getting my son in laws right.This is what you do .You get under the truck locate bleed valve .Have someone else depress clutch pedal fully and hold it to floor you then crack open the bleed valve close back off "DO NOT LET YOUR HELPER LET OFF THE PEDAL TILL YOU HAVE IT CLOSED OFF repeat this untill it feels right make sure to keep plenty of fluid in master cyl.
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Old 09-15-2008, 07:16 PM   #4
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ill try what you said country boy and i also heard another way to do it as well. ill let yall know what i did if it works. lol.
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Old 09-15-2008, 10:37 PM   #5
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I've heard from a lot of people that these systems are a nightmare to bleed. If countryboys way doesn't work try it with a hose submerged in brake fluid. Open the bleeder and pump the pedal, when you push it pushes out the air and when you release it draws in fresh fluid. I've also had good luck by (after bleeding) removing the master cylinder cap and popping the pedal up to reverse bleed the system to remove the last bit of air that remains. Popping the pedal forces the air out of the master cylinder instead of having to get it all at the bleeder.
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Old 09-15-2008, 11:11 PM   #6
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by popping the pedal do you mean basically pulling it back to fully not engaged really fast?
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Old 09-15-2008, 11:20 PM   #7
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Yes, slip your foot off the pedal so it pops up as fast as possible. Depending on how the pedal pops (sometimes the pedal spring doesn't allow it) you may need to help it up, but you want it to come up as fast and hard as possible. If it doesn't come up fast and hard it doesn't work as good because it's forcing the air from the opposite end all the way back up. If you watch the master cylinder while you (or someone else) do it you will see the air bubbles coming up from the bottom of the master cylinder. The bubbles will get tinier and tinier.
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Old 09-16-2008, 01:41 PM   #8
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alright man, ill try. ill let yall know how it works out.
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Old 09-16-2008, 02:21 PM   #9
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If none of that works, open the bleeder pump the hell out of the pedal.. YES I know this will suck air in. It will help move the air that is trapped in there. Once you do that using your hand pump the hell out of the pedal with the bleeder closed, open the bleeder with the pedal down. Repeat as necessary.
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Old 09-16-2008, 02:37 PM   #10
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I read once that after bleeding the clutch like you would the breaks (pumping the pedal while not letting air back through the bleed screw) close the bleed screw, depress the clutch pedal all the way to the floor and crack the bleed screw for just a moment, then close it immediatly. This will get the last bit of air out of the slave cylinder. It worked for me.
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