qdeezie

Harbor Freight sells engine stands. Whichever is best for your budget. All of the ones they sell will support the 302.

As for the bolts, use grade 8 bolts and hardened washers (if available) to secure your engine to the engine stand.

Mr_Scary

Perfect. qdeezie I appreciate all you are doing here.
and all you guys chiming in as well.
I should probably start a thread of my own so I don't clutter up your tutorial.

I found a 302 roller (Well I will need to verify this in person)
From a 1994 Bronco. So I'm assuming it's the same 302 roller in my 94 F150. (Hopefully)

I will be going to the yard tomorrow to pull this engine.
Is 275 bucks a good deal for complete oil pan to intake.
no accessories like alt, power steering etc...

As for the knock sensor, I'm not sure. but being same year I'm hoping it's the same.
It's located on the top rear of the block if I have the correct information.
I will look at mine tomorrow to see if it has one. and take my Chilton with me if I can still read it. the book is 22 years old, and i'm 44 so I will take my glasses too.

I have been eyeing the engine stands at harbor freight for about 2 years.
I'm getting the 1000 lb one for 59 bucks, and use a 20% off coupon.
Although I really liked the 2k lb one 125 bucks that folds up, but this engine will probably on the stand for a while.

If the trans is already pulled I will need some trans bolts to bolt it to the stand.
maybe I will steal my brothers from his truck since he is going with me.
he has the 4.9 with the same Mazda transmission

I'm really hoping it has the throtle body as mine sprung a leak a couple years ago I had to bypass the coolant port. I think it's just a freeze plug.

Also I haven't rebuilt an entire engine since my 1973 F150 or F100 with a 390 back in like 88'/89' I was 17, and my Grandpa was in Vegas so I used his garage, and was finishing up when he got home.
My uncle came in to check on me, and said "what the hell, do you know where all this stuff goes. I said I would figure it out. he said "OK"
Can't believe I did it. We didn't have internet, or youtube, we had haynes, and chilton, and the old guys in the parts store.

BLDTruth

^^^When you pick up the engine and start working on it, please start a new thread and let us know how it goes! And $275 is a solid price I think.

Mr_Scary

OK, I made a thread, and have a story.
I'm irritated at this point.
https://www.f150forum.com/f10/build-...50-4x4-374127/

zfecht96

the motercraft plugs are sp493

zfecht96

Iv got gt40 heads that have been o-ring cut what head gasket would you recomend?

machinist68

It looks like this thread is pretty old but I'd like to continue it a little longer if the curator is still on here. I've got a similar vehicle that I'm building a motor for except my 1992 came with a 5.0 HO E4OD through 411 gears and I'm rebuilding a 1993 351W to install into the truck. In all the research I've done I cant seem to get a straight answer on the 351W. Id like to acheive 400 hp, I'm having the bottom end remain stock minus the cam. The block came with hydraulic flat tappet lifters but I'm not opposed to installing rollers if needed of course they will need the cross arm as the block is not a roller that I'm aware. Will the heads and cam grinds listed above work with a 351W build or is this a totally different build? Also will I need to change over to MAF (fiveologyracing.com has conversions) or can I stay with SD/MAP?

Thanks in advance

qdeezie

With the 351W, there are a few things to take into consideration. Keep in mind, I'm making some assumptions on your build seeing that you're on this particular thread.

1) If you are aiming for 400hp, you'll need at least 30lb injectors. You'll likely also need to upgrade your fuel pump as well.

2) You will need to upgrade your EFI intake to the Edelbrock upper and lower intake. The 351W factory lower intake doesn't flow all that well.

3) I think it would be your safest bet to go with a roller cam.

4) A custom cam is the only way to go with the 351W in my opinion. I could recommend an off the shelf cam, but the 351W has so much potential and you'd be cheating yourself.

5) With heads, you have a bit of flexibility. You can use the heads I've stated here, or you could go to the next level up, which would be AFR 185, Trick Flow 190, Trick Flow 205 or Brodix ST 5.0R.

5a) If it were me, I'd stick to the heads I listed for the 302 since you're keeping your displacement at 351W and that also keeps things simple for piston to valve clearance purposes. (AFR 165, Trick Flow 170 or Brodix ST 5.0).

6) As far as MAF vs SD is concerned, MAF is the most practical way to go, but the experimental geek in me says to see how would SD tolerate those larger injectors if your custom cam is putting out good vacuum before switching over to MAF. I wish there was more SD aftermarket support.

Hope this helps.

Tanner Beglau

I am using much of the suggestions you've provided in this highly informative thread on my 1996 5.0 xlt 130,000m. I have purchased a custome ground cam, upgraded the springs on a set of gt40s with a trickflow kit with dampeners as well as shaved .001/valve job. I also purchase a cloyes hex-a-just timing chain, new head bolts, intake bolt, IAC bypass plate and all proper gaskets you recommend. Also the tranny (4r70w) is at the shop getting a rebuild and upgrade. I have about $500 more on my budget. My question is what do you recommend is the minimum I do other than what I have listed? Is there anyway I can check the bottom end with dismantling? I did a compression test rings are all still good. Here is my cams spec card.

qdeezie

A few things come to mind:

1) Check the intake port size on your GT40 heads and the port size on your lower intake manifold where it mates to the head. Depending on how much smaller the intake is, you might stand to have it ported out to match the size of the GT40 intake ports. It's not an absolute must, but the more air you get to your heads, the better.

2) You could plastigauge your rod and main bearings to verify clearances are within spec. If your engine is still in the truck, you more than likely won't be able to do this. I wouldn't.