fordtrucknut

lets see here,
you have to drop the drive shafts, unbolt the trans from the motor and the cross member, unhook all of the linkages jack up front of trans then jerk and jerk it backwards, get about 6-8 inches of clearance, plus the jack it there holding up the front of the trans, so that is in the way too, not to mention your on your back the whole time reaching above.
lets not forget the welded exhaust, so you have that to unbolt from the manifolds/hangers then your going to have to cut it somewhere unless you can pull the exhaust out from under the truck whole( and if you cut it you have to re-weld it), then you get to reach up in that 8 inch slot and remove the fly wheel/flex plate , then you get to pull out the seal, and somehow hammer in the old one,

then you get to unbolt the motor mounts and lift up the engine to start pulling pan bolts,

*PS at this step you are about 10 connectors and 6 hoses away from having the entire engine out of the truck.


BASICALLY it is six of one half a dozen of the other scenario.

but i personally can have an engine pulled out in less than 2 hours. and that is draggin butt too.

90F150XLTBilly

i didnt mess with anything on top when i did my pan gasket. just gotta be careful cause i dont imagine that aluminum upper manifold could take too much stress if it got pushed up against somethin. if u got a cherry picker it shouldnt be an issue for you. i lifted mine from under the crank with the trans still attached. so it had to go back and up. but with your trans separated, and lifting straight up with a cherry picker i think you'll be fine.

F100builder

This is about what I was expecting...I replaced an oil pan on a 300 i6 in an '89 4WD. I didn't have to remove the upper intake but it was still a pain. I didn't remove the entire oil pump though...just the pickup which is what I'd do for the 5.8 too. I don't want to mess with the pump drive shaft if I can help it. I also replaced the rear main seal in my '56 way back when I was a teen but it was an early 302 with a 2-piece seal and the truck is 2WD. I pulled the pan and the rear main cap only for that job.

The engine and transmission must be separated either way and the exhaust must be disconnected either way too (well, not necessary with the trans pull actually)...granted, only the manifolds need separated from the Y when pulling the engine but I'm replacing the y-pipe and cat anyway. The E4OD only has a kickdown link that snaps off without tools, an electrical connector (no tools), and 2 cooler lines. I guess it's just me but I'd rather not deal with fuel, electrical, coolant, several accessories, etc. I still believe the E4OD is the easier of the 2 to pull...and I can pull a motor like nobody's business too. Perhaps I'll give it one more once over and change my mind...I'll let you know but I still think I'm gonna spend Friday on my back.

Just call me Sean

iTrader: (1)

All that time on your back, or all that time standing at the hood.

Mass0wnage

Unless you have a 4 post shop lift, with a high rise tranny jack, It'd be easier with both motor and tranny out of the truck. It was a pita just changin the oil pan gasket on a 302, ended up cutting the Y-pipe, raisin the motor as high as we possibly could without breaking anything, and snaking the 1 piece gasket under the oil pump. Was a long afternoon, and it wasn't very fun.

When we swapped in the 5.8 we changed oil pan gasket, front pump seal, rear main seal, new flywheel, etc etc, and I sure as hell wouldn't want that task laying on my back.

Just my 2 cents. Do what you see best fit for you.

fordtrucknut

yay lol