BLDTruth

Agreed...all the others look like they have to be pressed in.

BLDTruth

Alrighty I ordered the Energy Suspension poly bushings.

Only other thing I can think of off the top of my head that I will need for a complete rear end swap are new U-bolts. I picked up new springs/shoes/cylinders for the brakes, as well as a new brake hose and clips. I will be using the drums from my truck which have less than 3000 miles on them. I have a gasket and oil/additive for the diff. Anything else I am forgetting?

Chris_1

iTrader: (1)

New steel brake lines and E-cables and borrow a couple of wheels would allow you to to have everything completely assembled ahead of time, then you can just unhook one - roll it out, roll the new one in and hook it up.
Make sure you have the socket for the drive shaft yoke bolts (12 mm 12 point ?)

BLDTruth

Yup I have the socket - I like the way you think with the wheels. I think what will end up happening is I will roll out the old one, put it up on stands, pull the wheels and drums and slap them on the other axle, then roll it back underneath.

E-brake cables and stainless lines look remarkably solid on both axles. So I have spares. I have a buddy who has done it before who is going to help me in about a week or so, I'll let you all know how it goes!

Chris_1

iTrader: (1)

If you have new u-bolts ready to go, a mini grinder with a cutoff wheel makes short work of the old u-bolts.
The real bitch will be the spring mount bolts. They like to freeze into the bushing. Start soaking the crap out of them with penetrating oil every day or two between now and when you're ready. And cross your fingers.

BLDTruth

Roger that - PB blaster is liquid gold.

So you were right about replacing the e-brake cables Chris. One of them was seized up so I picked up some replacements at my local shop. The driver's side fits perfectly but the passenger side cable is weirdly long where it goes into the drum....actually its not the cable it is the spring. I had to have someone pull the cable to compress the spring while I was setting up the shoes to put on the return springs, otherwise it just wouldn't stay put long enough for me to do anything. I decided to take it back to the shop to get a replacement but it was exactly the same, and two other shops yielded similar results. I got it all buttoned up but the spring is so long it almost bulges out into the wheel adjuster. Hopefully when it is all hooked up it will work properly - anyone else ever have this issue? Even the pictures online of all of the aftermarket brands like dorman/wagner/raybestos all look like the spring is just waaaaaay too long.

Also I picked up some Valvoline 80w90 gear oil that is supposed to have limited slip additive already in it...I'm assuming this stuff will be safe?

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Valvoline-...ingMethod=p13n

BLDTruth

Decided to pick up a bottle of motorcraft friction modifier from the dealer - only $7. Now I know why the differential oil smelled so badly when I emptied the pumpkin. Holy good god does it stink.

David Young

^^^THIS^^^

I had my local Ford dealer change the gears in my Mustang. For break in they put in 'two bottles' of friction modifier. I did a burn out one day to find i had an open diff . Break in was over and i changed the fluid and put 3 oz of friction modiffier in but kept the 1 oz for just in case i needed it. The 4 oz bottle is good for 'something like' 2 qts to 4 qts of rearend lube. The 3 oz was enough for me but if i were to hear sounds on hard turns, i had the 1oz i had saved. That was a couple years ago and haven't had to add the 1 oz of friction modifier.

BLDTruth

Yup I took back the stuff that had the pre-added modifier and bought regular 80w-90 gear oil and a bottle of the friction modifier from the dealer. Gonna fill it up today and make sure there's no leaking.

Speaking of which, I've read conflicting reports on how much oil to add to the limited slip diff. On my 3:55 open diff I just filled it til it started overflowing out of the fill hole - but I watched a video recently where the guy said there was a different protocol for limited slip diffs - anybody have any info on that?

David Young

I've changed my rear end lube in my Mustang (8.8, 3.73 gears) four times. The 'books' say the 8.8 holds 2 quarts. Each time it took 2 1/3 quarts to fill mine, until it starts running out of the fill hole.
I pump in 1 quart of gear lube then the 4 oz bottle of friction modifier. Then fill until it starts to run out of the fill hole.

I only put in 3 oz of friction modifier. In my opinion 3 oz is enough for 2 1/3 quarts of gear lube but if you hear sounds from the rear end when turning, add the other ounce. Mine worked perfect with 3 oz