About the Ign. System Upgrade/ Timing Bump for OBD1 (Pre-96')
05-11-2010, 06:49 AM
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About the Ign. System Upgrade/ Timing Bump for OBD1 (Pre-96')
This is the Ignition System Upgrade/ Timing Bump Link: http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/show...ht=timing+bump
Actually, there's a couple things being done on the link that compliment each other.
A timing bump by itself only requires a sound, healthy ignition system, assuming the rest of the engine is up to it as mentioned below. The Ignition system upgrade is to allow the plug gap stretched to provide firings w/ consistent, larger spark kernel size.
Plug choice:
The problem w/ double Platinum plugs is they create more heat from the extra resistance created by the platinum plate (how they self clean). It is less conductive than copper & once the heat is created in the cylinder, the platinum's insulative properties inhibits that heat from being drawn out through the plug. This lends itself to ping. That's the last thing you want for a timing bump. The coppers create less heat to begin with & more effectively draw heat away. I can't get a comfortable 16 BTDC w/ 87 octane using double platinums. Occacional Ping under load! Coppers cores, no problem! I can get 18 BTDC w/ coppers but don't see enough gain in the extra 2 degrees in an otherwise stock engine to warrant running it there.
The link specifies a higher voltage(48-60k) low ohm (.35-.45 ohm) coil, lower resistance superior insulated wires to contain the spark impulse all the way to the plug, which now can have a 20% larger spark kernel exposure to more effectively ignite the atomized fuel. Because now your able to run w/ a .054 gap, rather than your stock .044 gap. Or in the .060's, if your stock gap was .054 to begin with.
A brass cap & rotor are required to provide dependable dispensation of the spark pulses. A high output coil will destroy a stock Cap & rotor set in short order. 16 BTDC seems to be the top of the sweet spot for an otherwise stock engine. Not enough additional benifit to warrant going w/ any more advance. Once again Copper core plugs, requiring less resistance to be overcome to initiate spark, is the better choice for larger gaps than Double Platinums.
Your ducks have to be in a row for a successful timing bump. No active error codes. No combustion chamber deposits, which is the most popular reason for ping (Seafoam Treatment), Desludge the engine (Seafoam Treatment), effective coolant system(flush), no unmetered air or Vac leaks. Healthy fuel delivery system pressure & clean injectors(Seafoam/ then Lucas injector cleaner added every 4-5 tank fulls). https://www.f150forum.com/f33/how-se...-1991-a-31505/
Compression doesn't have to be impressive, just balanced. Synthetic oil w/ a stabilizer (Lucas) added is strongly advised. Your asking it to produce a higher rate of compression, so it deserves & should have it.
I also suggest after flushing the collant system, to switch to Distilled water/antifreeze to dramatically reduce corrosion, hard particle & scale build up. And switching, at least to a 180F thermostat may prove beneficial (Although seldom required below 14BTDC).
This should be done last, as every engine is a little different. You may decided to go w/ a little less base timing advance & a lower thermostat may not be advantageous overall. Fuel trim doesn't begin until closed loop function begins (aprox.184F for many/ A little less for others) The factory uses a 195F to get you into closed loop quickly & keep you there.
Sometime's going to a 180F stat is the difference between a comfortable 16 BTDC & a dicey 16BTDC w/ ping looming. I would wait to decide on your stat temp for last. See if what you get w/ a stock 195F is good enough.
An alternative to dropping in a 180F thermostat, that you may want to try first is add a bottle of "Water Wetter" (by Redline) to your coolant system first. This product significantly increases the thermal transfer property's of the coolant system to more readily carry away Thermal buildup generated by combustion chambers.
It's a balancing act with staying in closed loop & providing sufficient cooling properties for the addition compression chamber temps generated by further base time advance.
Better to err on the side of safety & reliability.
The less of these duck in a row, the less additional advance will be tolerated before ping is observed. Most people end up at 13-14 BTDC, many times w/ minimal prep. Advance base timing incrementally from stock 10 BTDC till ping is observed under load, then retard 2 degrees. On gap stretching, increase incrementally till miss is observed under load, then bring gap in .002. But w/a 48K, low ohm coil, a .052 gap is pretty much assured. If .054 is your stock gap, .060-062 seems to be where most end up.
Try to resist the urge to increase octane. Eventually, it will only come back to bite you in the ***! These engine's are engineered to run on 87' octane, even w/ the timing bump (although OBD2's seem to be able to adapt to a slight increase/ I'm guessing MAF & sequential injection helps).
Then there's a few that do everything right in prep & parts, & can't seem to get past 14 BTDC. Beat's the ***** outta me! I wish I knew what their glitch was. I'm thinkin something below the surface, like a failed air intake gasket, but that normally affects idle too. Anyway, hope this helps.
14 BTDC "is" notable in MPG & performance. Even 12BTDC will show improvement. 16BTDC is not a requirement, just a possibility if your engine is up to it & you've gotten your duck's in a row. Anything above 10BTDC will be an improvement.
One more time: Err on the side of safety & reliability, especially if it's your daily driver! "Ping" is your enemy.
Actually, there's a couple things being done on the link that compliment each other.
A timing bump by itself only requires a sound, healthy ignition system, assuming the rest of the engine is up to it as mentioned below. The Ignition system upgrade is to allow the plug gap stretched to provide firings w/ consistent, larger spark kernel size.
Plug choice:
The problem w/ double Platinum plugs is they create more heat from the extra resistance created by the platinum plate (how they self clean). It is less conductive than copper & once the heat is created in the cylinder, the platinum's insulative properties inhibits that heat from being drawn out through the plug. This lends itself to ping. That's the last thing you want for a timing bump. The coppers create less heat to begin with & more effectively draw heat away. I can't get a comfortable 16 BTDC w/ 87 octane using double platinums. Occacional Ping under load! Coppers cores, no problem! I can get 18 BTDC w/ coppers but don't see enough gain in the extra 2 degrees in an otherwise stock engine to warrant running it there.
The link specifies a higher voltage(48-60k) low ohm (.35-.45 ohm) coil, lower resistance superior insulated wires to contain the spark impulse all the way to the plug, which now can have a 20% larger spark kernel exposure to more effectively ignite the atomized fuel. Because now your able to run w/ a .054 gap, rather than your stock .044 gap. Or in the .060's, if your stock gap was .054 to begin with.
A brass cap & rotor are required to provide dependable dispensation of the spark pulses. A high output coil will destroy a stock Cap & rotor set in short order. 16 BTDC seems to be the top of the sweet spot for an otherwise stock engine. Not enough additional benifit to warrant going w/ any more advance. Once again Copper core plugs, requiring less resistance to be overcome to initiate spark, is the better choice for larger gaps than Double Platinums.
Your ducks have to be in a row for a successful timing bump. No active error codes. No combustion chamber deposits, which is the most popular reason for ping (Seafoam Treatment), Desludge the engine (Seafoam Treatment), effective coolant system(flush), no unmetered air or Vac leaks. Healthy fuel delivery system pressure & clean injectors(Seafoam/ then Lucas injector cleaner added every 4-5 tank fulls). https://www.f150forum.com/f33/how-se...-1991-a-31505/
Compression doesn't have to be impressive, just balanced. Synthetic oil w/ a stabilizer (Lucas) added is strongly advised. Your asking it to produce a higher rate of compression, so it deserves & should have it.
I also suggest after flushing the collant system, to switch to Distilled water/antifreeze to dramatically reduce corrosion, hard particle & scale build up. And switching, at least to a 180F thermostat may prove beneficial (Although seldom required below 14BTDC).
This should be done last, as every engine is a little different. You may decided to go w/ a little less base timing advance & a lower thermostat may not be advantageous overall. Fuel trim doesn't begin until closed loop function begins (aprox.184F for many/ A little less for others) The factory uses a 195F to get you into closed loop quickly & keep you there.
Sometime's going to a 180F stat is the difference between a comfortable 16 BTDC & a dicey 16BTDC w/ ping looming. I would wait to decide on your stat temp for last. See if what you get w/ a stock 195F is good enough.
An alternative to dropping in a 180F thermostat, that you may want to try first is add a bottle of "Water Wetter" (by Redline) to your coolant system first. This product significantly increases the thermal transfer property's of the coolant system to more readily carry away Thermal buildup generated by combustion chambers.
It's a balancing act with staying in closed loop & providing sufficient cooling properties for the addition compression chamber temps generated by further base time advance.
Better to err on the side of safety & reliability.
The less of these duck in a row, the less additional advance will be tolerated before ping is observed. Most people end up at 13-14 BTDC, many times w/ minimal prep. Advance base timing incrementally from stock 10 BTDC till ping is observed under load, then retard 2 degrees. On gap stretching, increase incrementally till miss is observed under load, then bring gap in .002. But w/a 48K, low ohm coil, a .052 gap is pretty much assured. If .054 is your stock gap, .060-062 seems to be where most end up.
Try to resist the urge to increase octane. Eventually, it will only come back to bite you in the ***! These engine's are engineered to run on 87' octane, even w/ the timing bump (although OBD2's seem to be able to adapt to a slight increase/ I'm guessing MAF & sequential injection helps).
Then there's a few that do everything right in prep & parts, & can't seem to get past 14 BTDC. Beat's the ***** outta me! I wish I knew what their glitch was. I'm thinkin something below the surface, like a failed air intake gasket, but that normally affects idle too. Anyway, hope this helps.
14 BTDC "is" notable in MPG & performance. Even 12BTDC will show improvement. 16BTDC is not a requirement, just a possibility if your engine is up to it & you've gotten your duck's in a row. Anything above 10BTDC will be an improvement.
One more time: Err on the side of safety & reliability, especially if it's your daily driver! "Ping" is your enemy.
Last edited by ymeski56; 04-02-2013 at 11:01 AM.
05-12-2010, 12:15 AM
#3
Senior Member
Yeah, and you left out side gapping and acetone! What gives! If your gonna do a "how to" or "why to" be sure to be thorough, JEEZ! I expect much more from you ymeski..... tsk tsk....
05-12-2010, 01:16 AM
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Last edited by ymeski56; 05-12-2010 at 01:27 AM.
