hhawkins48

I've got a 96 f150 4x4 with a 351w. Today while I was driving the truck just turned off. No sputtering or struggle of any kind. It's like a just turned off the switch. After I pulled over at a stop, I turned it off and tried to crank it again. It turned over but would not crank up. I did this four times and it finally started up again. Any helpful thoughts would be appreciated as this is my daily driver.

hhawkins48

I've been reading on different forums and a lot of people are saying the ignition control module can cause it. Anyone had the same thing occur?

memoniz

Pull codes and run some tests. I'm not sure a 351w engine ignition is the same as a 300, but it sounds like the PIP sensor. I had problems with it twice, shuts off like it had a kill switch. It gets worse as time goes by. I just bought a new distributor, not re-manufactured, and replaced it. Haven't had the problem since. If you look at some old posts, there is a link about easy engine diagnostics. I have also found the Haynes book works well too. It could be the ICM, or a couple other things. That is why I would pull codes and run tests first.

hhawkins48

Thanks for the response. I went to auto zone and had the codes read. There was nothing but a vaccum problem and bank 1 is running rich. The truck has now died on me 4 times now. This time it wouldn't crank and I killed the battery. Could there be any alternator problems that would do this? I've always been under the impression that once a car is running the battery/alternator have nothing to do with the vehicle. (Until you turn it off and the battery is dead). Is that correct? I'm going to check into the PIP and honestly it wouldn't hurt to have a new distributor under the hood.

memoniz

Generally speaking, the battery gets the vehicle started and the alternator keeps the vehicle running. The alternator will run all the electrical on the truck while it is running and charge the battery at the same time. The battery on a running truck will buffer the electrical items from surges and stores power for when the truck is off. Well, that's how I understand it, but that's a simplistic view.

If your truck is cutting off, and you have enough power to turn the engine over after, then it's probably not the alternator or battery.

hhawkins48

Well the battery died after about 3 minutes of trying to crank the truck. I was cycling on and off (not just destroying my starter for 3 minutes). Just don't want you to think I'm an idiot. But if you still don't think it could be battery/alternator then I will check on distributor. I just don't know how to replace a distributor and an alternator is a piece of cake. Thanks again.

BROWNINGFX4

Did you have autozone or another auto parts store test the alternator battery and starter? They can do it all there for you. For free

stromius

Check if your FPR vacuum has fuel in it.

Chris_1

iTrader: (1)

Check for spark. Pull a spark plug wire, stick a spark plug in it and use a jumper cable to ground the body of the plug, then crank it with the key and see if there is spark at the plug.
Your ICM should be bolted to the driver's fender just below the hinge somewhere. The other things in that system are the coil and the pickup module inside the distributor (PIP)
Your problem sounds exactly what I had wrong with my '96, which was a bad PIP

memoniz

x2. This could be a new problem. The day I got my new distributor, I tried my truck one more time. It cranked but would not start. So the next morning I went out to change the distributor, tried to see if it would run first, and my starter relay went bad for no apparent reason. And it was only a year old. Parts on old trucks die at will.