An obd I code reader is almost not worth the money. I've made a jumper out of a short wire and two male spade connectors and attatched it to the harness at the test plug. Place jumper, key on, copy flashes, decode
. Of course a reader might be a wee bit faster.
How well did the connectors go back on the tanks?
Do you think you crimped the new wires on really well?
The fuel pressure testor is almost a must. I was puttin' out about 30 psi and thought I had full pressure. It's worth the $$ to get a testor that will do most makes.
Chase the fire / chase the spark / chase the fuel / check the timeing
1) what codes are thrown?
2)what pressure do you have on the fuel rail?
3)Next time chase the spark before spendin' 150$ on ignition parts (I've spent at least that on parts so far myself But you shouldn't have to worry about them now. You've already solved these next steps.
1)fire at the plugs
2)Blue fire at the plugs?
3)fire at the dist? consistent ?
4)are your primary and secondary coil resistances within tolerance?
4) are the plugs wet? are they fouled?
5) are you in time?
I have a crank no start issue too. One of my problems was a little bit of rust in the bottom of the distributor. (My opinion) It was causing the injectors to fire at odd times. Once I replaced the hall sensor and cleaned the distributor I now get detonation in the cylinders. But I have other troubles now... If you would, please take a look at my thread and see if anything comes to mind.