95 F150 5.0 Won't Start
#1
95 F150 5.0 Won't Start
95 F150 w/ 5.0 and 4x4, 179k, auto. Truck has been hard to turn over this past week (cold), but if I would stop cranking the engine, then retry, it would start right up. This morning, nothing I could do would get it to start. I tried switching fuel tanks, spraying starting fluid in as my assistant tried to start it, and starting in neutral, all to no avail.
It has been cooler in the morning this past week, but that is the only difference I can think of. I did plugs, wires, msd cap, msd rotor, msd coil about a year and a half ago. The hard starts began about a week ago, but until now would always start once I let off the key, then tried again. It would fire right up. The truck drove completely normal, no sputtering or issues with acceleration.
I haven't had a chance to scan for codes yet, and will do so this evening, but if that turns up negative, where should I start? Just trying to get a head start, I am very short on time today, and need the truck for several things this evening. The sad part is I just spent $800 fixing my wife's sonata, and then this happens. Help is GREATLY appreciated!
It has been cooler in the morning this past week, but that is the only difference I can think of. I did plugs, wires, msd cap, msd rotor, msd coil about a year and a half ago. The hard starts began about a week ago, but until now would always start once I let off the key, then tried again. It would fire right up. The truck drove completely normal, no sputtering or issues with acceleration.
I haven't had a chance to scan for codes yet, and will do so this evening, but if that turns up negative, where should I start? Just trying to get a head start, I am very short on time today, and need the truck for several things this evening. The sad part is I just spent $800 fixing my wife's sonata, and then this happens. Help is GREATLY appreciated!
#2
I would try and reset the ECU, after checking for codes of course. I've read about a lot of word things cured but just unplugging the battery for 30 minutes. Make sure to turn your headlight on while your battery is disconnected.
If that doesn't help, IDK. I'm pretty new to these trucks. Check your fuel pressure regulator, make sure you're getting spark. Check you distributor and rotor just in case.
If that doesn't help, IDK. I'm pretty new to these trucks. Check your fuel pressure regulator, make sure you're getting spark. Check you distributor and rotor just in case.
#4
I changed the filter last year for preventative maintenance. Fuel pump is a possibility I guess, but it sounds as strong as ever. I also tried starting with the other fuel tank and it didn't work either
#5
Well if you fed it fuel from a gas can that should rule out fuel pump or filter and if it turning strong just not getting fire maybe timing?
On the filters I change mine every 3rd/4th oil change since not telling what kind of trash is in these 20 year old gas tanks.
#6
Nothing negative on the codes, both koeo and koer showed 111. I did disconnect the battery, then when I reconnected it, it was dead. I jump started it, and it cranked right up and runs like a champ. I had the battery, alternator and starter tested at 2 different auto parts stores, so I think they are all ruled out. I've started it up 5 or 6 times since then with no issues. I checked for codes 3 times.
I bought a iacv gasket for $1.50 so I can clean the iacv tomorrow and see how it looks. I'm hoping it starts up in the morning so I can drive to work. if not, I have a friend on stand by to chauffeur me.
I bought a iacv gasket for $1.50 so I can clean the iacv tomorrow and see how it looks. I'm hoping it starts up in the morning so I can drive to work. if not, I have a friend on stand by to chauffeur me.
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#9
Resurrecting this to help others who come across the same problem...
It happened again to me today after an especially cold night. It would not start, and I ended up killing the battery and had to sit at home until my wife got home for a jump.
Anyway, long story short, I think I've got it figured out. After much reading, I decided to diagnose whether my PIP was defective. Low and behold, I pulled my SPOUT connector, and she started right up! So according to the internet, this confirms that my PIP is bad.
I have decided to replace the entire distributor to make it easy, that way I do it once and don't have to worry about removing/replacing the PIP on it's own.
My question is, what distributor do I buy? I've read bad things about Cardone, and also about anything refurbished. I looked for a motorcraft distributor, but could not find one. Anyone got any recommendations so I don't have to replace this thing again? MSD has a nice looking distributor, but it's way out of my price range. I don't mind paying more than the $80 for the cheapies, but also don't want to shell out $300 for the MSD.
Also, any good videos on replacing the distributor? Thanks!
It happened again to me today after an especially cold night. It would not start, and I ended up killing the battery and had to sit at home until my wife got home for a jump.
Anyway, long story short, I think I've got it figured out. After much reading, I decided to diagnose whether my PIP was defective. Low and behold, I pulled my SPOUT connector, and she started right up! So according to the internet, this confirms that my PIP is bad.
I have decided to replace the entire distributor to make it easy, that way I do it once and don't have to worry about removing/replacing the PIP on it's own.
My question is, what distributor do I buy? I've read bad things about Cardone, and also about anything refurbished. I looked for a motorcraft distributor, but could not find one. Anyone got any recommendations so I don't have to replace this thing again? MSD has a nice looking distributor, but it's way out of my price range. I don't mind paying more than the $80 for the cheapies, but also don't want to shell out $300 for the MSD.
Also, any good videos on replacing the distributor? Thanks!
#10
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Get a sharpie -magic marker- and mark a spot on the intake and on the rad hose that do a straight line across 2 wires on the distributor to help put it back where it was.
Then pop the cap, turn the motor to point the rotor exactly at #1. Mark that spot on the lower cap with the sharpie.
As you pull the distributor out, the rotor will turn counter clockwise a bit because of the angle cut gear. Mark that spot with the sharpie.
Don't let the motor turn while the dist. is out.
Install the bottom 1/2 of the cap on the new dist. line up the rotor with the mark and as you put it in it should turn clockwise to the other mark.
Install the cap and line up the dist with the 2 marks you made on the intake and rad hose.
You'll probably still have to fine tune the timing a bit, but that'll get you real close to where you should be.
Then pop the cap, turn the motor to point the rotor exactly at #1. Mark that spot on the lower cap with the sharpie.
As you pull the distributor out, the rotor will turn counter clockwise a bit because of the angle cut gear. Mark that spot with the sharpie.
Don't let the motor turn while the dist. is out.
Install the bottom 1/2 of the cap on the new dist. line up the rotor with the mark and as you put it in it should turn clockwise to the other mark.
Install the cap and line up the dist with the 2 marks you made on the intake and rad hose.
You'll probably still have to fine tune the timing a bit, but that'll get you real close to where you should be.