95 F-150 pictures in exchange for a question :D
04-19-2015, 01:39 PM
#1
95 F-150 pictures in exchange for a question :D
1995 F-150 Eddie Bauer
4x4 manual 5 speed
V8 5.0L 302
142,000 miles
I bought this truck for about $4,000. I have put it off for a while but now i am beginning to perform a 100,000 mile tune up. I have not done much yet what i have done is as follows; sea foam'ed crankcase/brake vacuum booster line/fuel tank ran it for 10 miles and then used motor flush and changed out oil/oil filter.
changed out rotor , distributor cap , wires and plugs and that is it. The truck actually runs a little bit better now which is encouraging. My next job will be replacing the fuel filter. At that point i plan on pulling KOEO codes and addressing those issues. The reason i assume there will be codes is the truck does not have much power but runs good.
What concerns me is the clutch when fully engaged squeals in certain gears. The clutch also clunks or slams when engaging no matter how careful i am. I am under the impression i have to remove the Transfer case and Transmission to service the clutch. Is that an accurate impression and if so what am i looking at in terms of difficulty ? any help and suggestions are greatly appreciated
4x4 manual 5 speed
V8 5.0L 302
142,000 miles
I bought this truck for about $4,000. I have put it off for a while but now i am beginning to perform a 100,000 mile tune up. I have not done much yet what i have done is as follows; sea foam'ed crankcase/brake vacuum booster line/fuel tank ran it for 10 miles and then used motor flush and changed out oil/oil filter.
changed out rotor , distributor cap , wires and plugs and that is it. The truck actually runs a little bit better now which is encouraging. My next job will be replacing the fuel filter. At that point i plan on pulling KOEO codes and addressing those issues. The reason i assume there will be codes is the truck does not have much power but runs good.
What concerns me is the clutch when fully engaged squeals in certain gears. The clutch also clunks or slams when engaging no matter how careful i am. I am under the impression i have to remove the Transfer case and Transmission to service the clutch. Is that an accurate impression and if so what am i looking at in terms of difficulty ? any help and suggestions are greatly appreciated
04-19-2015, 02:02 PM
#2
Make sure the slamming isn't related to something else in the driveline like sloppy u-joints or worn rear end.
But for removal of the clutch you're looking at driveshafts, transfer case, transmission.
A couple extra things like trans mount bolts and clutch cylinder line (I just unbolted the master cylinder and dropped it down with the trans, still hooked up).
Most of those bolts will be frozen in there pretty good, so it would be a good idea to start soaking them once a day now with penetrating oil.
You can also go in ahead of time and undo bolts and do them back up (heat may be required) so that when you're ready to do the job you know things are going to come undone no problem - nothing like getting stuck with the last bolt not coming undone when everything else is already unhooked.
That way too if you get an impossible bolt you can take it somewhere and have them put it on a hoist and undo that bolt and do it back up for you - $20 ??
As for difficulty my kid and his friend pulled an automatic out of his 4x4 and threw another back in in a (long) day. That was their first time doing that and really the biggest problems they had were with stubborn bolts.
But for removal of the clutch you're looking at driveshafts, transfer case, transmission.
A couple extra things like trans mount bolts and clutch cylinder line (I just unbolted the master cylinder and dropped it down with the trans, still hooked up).
Most of those bolts will be frozen in there pretty good, so it would be a good idea to start soaking them once a day now with penetrating oil.
You can also go in ahead of time and undo bolts and do them back up (heat may be required) so that when you're ready to do the job you know things are going to come undone no problem - nothing like getting stuck with the last bolt not coming undone when everything else is already unhooked.
That way too if you get an impossible bolt you can take it somewhere and have them put it on a hoist and undo that bolt and do it back up for you - $20 ??
As for difficulty my kid and his friend pulled an automatic out of his 4x4 and threw another back in in a (long) day. That was their first time doing that and really the biggest problems they had were with stubborn bolts.
04-19-2015, 02:15 PM
#3
Make sure the slamming isn't related to something else in the driveline like sloppy u-joints or worn rear end.
But for removal of the clutch you're looking at driveshafts, transfer case, transmission.
A couple extra things like trans mount bolts and clutch cylinder line (I just unbolted the master cylinder and dropped it down with the trans, still hooked up).
Most of those bolts will be frozen in there pretty good, so it would be a good idea to start soaking them once a day now with penetrating oil.
You can also go in ahead of time and undo bolts and do them back up (heat may be required) so that when you're ready to do the job you know things are going to come undone no problem - nothing like getting stuck with the last bolt not coming undone when everything else is already unhooked.
That way too if you get an impossible bolt you can take it somewhere and have them put it on a hoist and undo that bolt and do it back up for you - $20 ??
As for difficulty my kid and his friend pulled an automatic out of his 4x4 and threw another back in in a (long) day. That was their first time doing that and really the biggest problems they had were with stubborn bolts.
But for removal of the clutch you're looking at driveshafts, transfer case, transmission.
A couple extra things like trans mount bolts and clutch cylinder line (I just unbolted the master cylinder and dropped it down with the trans, still hooked up).
Most of those bolts will be frozen in there pretty good, so it would be a good idea to start soaking them once a day now with penetrating oil.
You can also go in ahead of time and undo bolts and do them back up (heat may be required) so that when you're ready to do the job you know things are going to come undone no problem - nothing like getting stuck with the last bolt not coming undone when everything else is already unhooked.
That way too if you get an impossible bolt you can take it somewhere and have them put it on a hoist and undo that bolt and do it back up for you - $20 ??
As for difficulty my kid and his friend pulled an automatic out of his 4x4 and threw another back in in a (long) day. That was their first time doing that and really the biggest problems they had were with stubborn bolts.
i believe i have ujoint issues as well since the truck gets a slight vibration at around 45-55mph in and around the drive shaft area's.
04-19-2015, 07:27 PM
#4
I successfully changed out my fuel filter. I hooked up the jumper and ran the trouble codes- OBDI. i see the 542 and then it repeats 542 what i dont understand is why it does a series of one flash of the check engine light every 1-2 seconds seven times this is KOEO. what is this telling me guys ?!?!
Last edited by jonwon; 04-19-2015 at 07:36 PM.
04-20-2015, 08:15 AM
#6
Senior Member
Reinstalling went smoother, but was still difficult as I did not have a transmission jack. I am 6'4" pushing 280, and my son is 6'3" 220, and it took everything we had for about an hour to finally get it back in place. The hardest part about the re-install was bleeding the clutch line - not in terms of muscle, but in frustration. One other thing - when you replace the clutch, if you have the flywheel resurfaced, make sure to install it with shims. Even though they typically only grind off an amount listed in thousandths of an inch, it still matters. All told, I spent about $650 for the trans rebuild. $100 for the clutch, and another $100-$150 in supplies and other things (trans fluid, DOT3 brake fluid (for clutch), re-surface of fly wheel, etc). I save about $650 - $1000 in labor, depending on where you might take it. Good luck!
04-20-2015, 09:38 PM
#7
i tripped the inertia switch with the engine running to reduce the fuel pressure so as to make the fuel filter replacement a little easier, i wonder if that triggered the 542 code.. what is the code 10 ? breaker ?
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04-20-2015, 09:41 PM
#8
I have basically the same truck as you, but with a straight 6 instead of your 5.0L I just had my trans rebuilt by a transmission shop, and to save $$$, did the rest of the labor myself. I agree with Chris1 regarding the U-Joints. That's the origin of many "clunking" sounds. As for removing the drive shaft, transfer case, and trans - yeah, it is definitely a chore. Removing the three took about 3 hours - at least half that time was spent on the bolts for the cross member holding up the trans. they are rusty, and two of them on each side are "hidden". You will see what I mean when you get under there.
Reinstalling went smoother, but was still difficult as I did not have a transmission jack. I am 6'4" pushing 280, and my son is 6'3" 220, and it took everything we had for about an hour to finally get it back in place. The hardest part about the re-install was bleeding the clutch line - not in terms of muscle, but in frustration. One other thing - when you replace the clutch, if you have the flywheel resurfaced, make sure to install it with shims. Even though they typically only grind off an amount listed in thousandths of an inch, it still matters. All told, I spent about $650 for the trans rebuild. $100 for the clutch, and another $100-$150 in supplies and other things (trans fluid, DOT3 brake fluid (for clutch), re-surface of fly wheel, etc). I save about $650 - $1000 in labor, depending on where you might take it. Good luck!
Reinstalling went smoother, but was still difficult as I did not have a transmission jack. I am 6'4" pushing 280, and my son is 6'3" 220, and it took everything we had for about an hour to finally get it back in place. The hardest part about the re-install was bleeding the clutch line - not in terms of muscle, but in frustration. One other thing - when you replace the clutch, if you have the flywheel resurfaced, make sure to install it with shims. Even though they typically only grind off an amount listed in thousandths of an inch, it still matters. All told, I spent about $650 for the trans rebuild. $100 for the clutch, and another $100-$150 in supplies and other things (trans fluid, DOT3 brake fluid (for clutch), re-surface of fly wheel, etc). I save about $650 - $1000 in labor, depending on where you might take it. Good luck!
04-24-2015, 08:15 PM
#10
hey guys i whent key on engine on with the jumper CEL flashed 4 quick flashes , then the engine revved up on a previously warmed up engine to about 1500 came back down to a normal idle (800) and that was it. its either 4 or 1,111. what does this all mean thanks for helP