'94 needs a few fixes (Exhaust / Oil Pan)
03-16-2010, 10:45 PM
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'94 needs a few fixes (Exhaust / Oil Pan)
I picked up a 94 F-150 XLT (5.8) with only 84,000 miles on it a few months ago. The truck is in great shape and I feel that I got a good price. Well as time goes on I have found a few things that need fixed. Just curious if anyone else has had these fixes and if you suggest anything. I will be having them done by a mechanic as I am an electronics guy!
1. Smell of exhuast in the cab when you use the heat or vent etc. I was hoping that it was just a hole in the exhuast by the mainfold. Well, I was partially right. I guess thier is a tube that connects both of the manifolds together and then goes to the catalytic converter. Well, that tube is rusted in half. Looking at about $175 for the 2 parts from Ford and about another $150 (at dealership) to install it.
2. While they were looking at the exhuast they gave me the "best" news. My oil pan is rusting out and is starting to look damp. They said this is a common problem on this year of truck. Problem is, the motor has to be lifted to change the pan and gasket. Looking at about $250 if I remember right for the parts and up to 5 hours of labor @ $79/hr. Ouch!!
I am still going to go to a local mechanic and get his thoughts as he charges $49 /hr and has worked on several of my vehicles in the past. I have been told that it is a good idea to go with a OEM oil pan instead of an aftermarket. What are your thoughts. Big difference in price.
1. Smell of exhuast in the cab when you use the heat or vent etc. I was hoping that it was just a hole in the exhuast by the mainfold. Well, I was partially right. I guess thier is a tube that connects both of the manifolds together and then goes to the catalytic converter. Well, that tube is rusted in half. Looking at about $175 for the 2 parts from Ford and about another $150 (at dealership) to install it.
2. While they were looking at the exhuast they gave me the "best" news. My oil pan is rusting out and is starting to look damp. They said this is a common problem on this year of truck. Problem is, the motor has to be lifted to change the pan and gasket. Looking at about $250 if I remember right for the parts and up to 5 hours of labor @ $79/hr. Ouch!!
I am still going to go to a local mechanic and get his thoughts as he charges $49 /hr and has worked on several of my vehicles in the past. I have been told that it is a good idea to go with a OEM oil pan instead of an aftermarket. What are your thoughts. Big difference in price.
03-16-2010, 11:04 PM
#2
Senior Member
A.I.R. Tube replacement parts = $90
Oil Pan Gasket = $20
The ability to NOT be mechanically inclined = PRICELESS!
No, really, the parts should be no more than about $150. I just had an oil pan gasket put on my 94' 5.0L, the gasket was $15 and it took the mechanic about 1.5hrs to replace. The engine has to be jacked up, not removed. Even if you have the entire oil pan replaced, the engine still does NOT have to be completely removed, just jacked up. I wouldn't think you'd have to actually replace the oil pan but, even if you do, an aftermarket pan can't cost more than $100 so you may have a total of $250 in parts and about 4-5 hours TOTAL for the repair. Shop around, could save you a ton of $$$$$
Oil Pan Gasket = $20
The ability to NOT be mechanically inclined = PRICELESS!
No, really, the parts should be no more than about $150. I just had an oil pan gasket put on my 94' 5.0L, the gasket was $15 and it took the mechanic about 1.5hrs to replace. The engine has to be jacked up, not removed. Even if you have the entire oil pan replaced, the engine still does NOT have to be completely removed, just jacked up. I wouldn't think you'd have to actually replace the oil pan but, even if you do, an aftermarket pan can't cost more than $100 so you may have a total of $250 in parts and about 4-5 hours TOTAL for the repair. Shop around, could save you a ton of $$$$$
03-17-2010, 10:24 AM
#6
Senior Member
Yea the dealership is just trying to rip you for the labor hours is what it sounds like. They wanted like 500 bucks or something nuts just to replace my ball joints. I'll just do them myself whenever I feel the urge to tackle it though. If your local mechanic can't change your pan gasket, then he's not much of a mechanic so he should have no problem.
apparently it will just be leaking for a while. LOLTrending Topics
03-17-2010, 08:23 PM
#8
When the book tells you to remove the upper intake....it makes it much much easier.....I did it with the plenum in place and there was alot of cussing...also, remove the clutch fan...or else you'll break your fan shroud like I did.
03-17-2010, 10:19 PM
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Stinkd,
Someone else told me to clean it up with dawn dish soap and then rought it up with a wire brush and put JB Weld on it. I am assuming this seal all you are talking about is similiar?
Has anyone else done this? I am not going to pay someone that kinda jack to replace the pan unless I have too. This isn't a daily driver!
Someone else told me to clean it up with dawn dish soap and then rought it up with a wire brush and put JB Weld on it. I am assuming this seal all you are talking about is similiar?
Has anyone else done this? I am not going to pay someone that kinda jack to replace the pan unless I have too. This isn't a daily driver!
03-18-2010, 01:44 AM
#10
Senior Member
Mine has an oil drip, more than dampness and I rarely have to add any in between oil changes. You'll be fine like you are for now I'd say. Just check the dipstick more often than you normally would.