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92 5.0 has fuel pressure and spark but don't start

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Old 01-30-2016, 07:30 PM
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Default 92 5.0 has fuel pressure and spark but don't start

My 92 f150 5.0 runs like kitting but about 3 months ago its has a intermittent problem it starts to acting like it is missing at idle and its shift real hard when it is acting up, it does it for a while then problem stops some times and then it is very hard to start and sometimes it starts fine, then about several weeks ago it die and took for ever to get it started again it want to die and missing real bad, I had to floor the gas peddle it would starts and then die but I was able to make home, come back few days later it started fine and rune fine for a day now it don't want to start don't matter what I do, it just cranked. I checked the fuel at the relief got about 50psi of pressure, pulled the plugs and checked for spark, have spark at all plugs when I turn the ignition on the fuel pump comes on but then cuts off like it suppose too after 1 to 2 seconds, I have good pressure on the fuel rail and spark. Check engine light is on when I turn on, but goes away when I start to turn over engine, I have tried starting fluid by the opening on the throttle body, still won't starts. I check the TPS it reads from .09v to 3.9V all do way open and a 5v input. also I unplug the the SPOUT jumper and it did no change anything.
Can anyone please help me I need this truck to get fire wood and I just about out... Socoro...por favor.
Old 01-31-2016, 02:07 AM
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If you got spark and get no response at all from starting fluid, you may have too much gas in the cylinders and it is fouling out the spark plugs keeping them from arcing inside the cylinders. That would be the easiest logical explanation.

Try to start the engine and then remove 2 or 3 spark plugs and inspect them upon removal to see if they are wet with gas.
Old 01-31-2016, 11:18 AM
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ok will do it now
thanks
Old 01-31-2016, 12:34 PM
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The reason I say try to start it first, is so the gas will be pushed up onto the spark plugs so you will see it.

If you do see or suspect gas in the cylinders and decide to spin the engine over with the spark plugs out, have a fire extinguisher there, the gas may well ignite on the outside of the engine. Don't ask me how I know that.
Old 01-31-2016, 12:35 PM
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I pull the code and I think it was 116 636 114

I did had the battery disconnected overnight


ECT out of self test range 0.3 to 3.7 volts.


Transmission Manual Lever Position Sensor circuit out of self test.


ACT out of self test range 0.3 to 3.7 volts.


I also pull the plug it was not too bad flooded but the sparks seams week
Old 01-31-2016, 02:01 PM
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how can I tell if I am getting enough spark? if the pick up coil is going bad it would have spark?
Old 01-31-2016, 06:00 PM
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It could be the coil itself maybe. I stick a spark plug into the wire and ground it with a booster cable. Easier to see in the dark, but if it's a weak yellow spark that's not good - you're looking for a healthy blue spark.
I don't know how you did the starting fluid test but just to clarify, you hold the throttle plates wide open and shoot a 3 second burst directly into the throttle body, then crank the engine.
The TPS should read .9 (not.09, maybe that was a typo) and climb smoothly all the way up to 4.5 to 5 volts as you open the throttle.
Thing that makes me suspect possibly TPS is (1) if voltage at the signal wire drops below .8 the injectors won't open, so no fuel no matter how much pressure you have, and (2) the shifting thing you mentioned; a TPS problem can make the trans shift funny, especially an E4OD.
That's assuming you have a spark that's hot enough to jump the gap; a weak spark in open air may be no spark under compression.
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Old 01-31-2016, 08:46 PM
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after replace the coil and the control module and throttle switch was no change I took the sparkplug out and clean them it started seams that's running rich I try to start again and it didn't start so I switch to the front tank (empty tank) and it started so became clear that the truck is flooding on start and getting too much gas, I run it for a wile and get the codes from the dash and I got 116 116 154 254 354 254 3 ECT out of self test range 0.3 to 3.7 volts., could not find 154 254 354code on the book,


any help would be appreciated


ps: Chris 1 thanks for the help I replace the tps and its reads .9v @ rest and 3.9v when throttle is open all the way is that a bad switch?

Last edited by pontala; 01-31-2016 at 08:49 PM.
Old 02-01-2016, 09:12 AM
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It should be closer to 5v (4.5 to 5) at WOT. You've got 5v input - WOT should be pretty much 5v output; no (or very little) resistance from tps to signal at that point. So 3.9 output at WOT is low - if the throttle is actually opening all the way, then it would seem that the TPS is not reading right - that would tell the computer that you only have your foot 3/4 of the way down when you've actually got it to the floor - but it'll only feed enough gas for 3/4.
I don't know what that tells you about the accuracy of all the other readings; is that a Motorcraft TPS ? Most people would recommend Motorcraft only for the TPS (also PCV and VSS should be Motorcraft only just as an aside; lots of people have had trouble with aftermarket pieces in those locations).
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Old 02-01-2016, 06:37 PM
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Ok I am ordering a Moto craft right now. I got the truck started several times today its seems to be related to Etc I unplug it and the truck started it runs much better but not perfect I pull the codes but I need some help I must missing something, here is what I got.


118118 long pause 1118542433634118542543634 what this means those suppose to be 3 digit codes or 2?



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