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Old 10-17-2010, 03:15 PM   #1
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Default 89 F150 - Fuel Pumps not running - unusual EEC

Maybe someone can give me some help since I for my 89 Lariat? I have combed the posts, trying every combination of keywords I could think of.
My F150 started and ran just fine until I didn't start it for a month. Now it will not start. No pump sound. I can hear two clicks from the FP relay (or the EEC relay?). The Inertia switch seems okay. I tested that by listening for the relay clicks (no clicks with the popup button up, clicks with it down).
I was going to check the FP by grounding pin# 6 but the EEC tester is different than any I've seen where #1 and #2 are at the top and 4,5,6 are on bottom. Mine has more connections. I don't want to take a chance on grounding the wrong pin and frying something. Where can I find a diagram of this one?
Also someone mentioned hitting the gas tanks and the external FP with a hammer.
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Old 10-17-2010, 03:42 PM   #2
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Old 10-17-2010, 03:46 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by zhmmy View Post
Maybe someone can give me some help since I for my 89 Lariat? I have combed the posts, trying every combination of keywords I could think of.
My F150 started and ran just fine until I didn't start it for a month. Now it will not start. No pump sound. I can hear two clicks from the FP relay (or the EEC relay?). The Inertia switch seems okay. I tested that by listening for the relay clicks (no clicks with the popup button up, clicks with it down).
I was going to check the FP by grounding pin# 6 but the EEC tester is different than any I've seen where #1 and #2 are at the top and 4,5,6 are on bottom. Mine has more connections. I don't want to take a chance on grounding the wrong pin and frying something. Where can I find a diagram of this one?
Also someone mentioned hitting the gas tanks and the external FP with a hammer.
Keep looking! Not sure what you found but it isn't the ECC Test connection.
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Old 10-17-2010, 05:34 PM   #4
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Does it spin over?

Do you have two fuel tanks?
If yes, have you tried both intake pumps to see if it will start by switching tanks?


Have you put fresh gas in since you've been trying to get it back running?


The high-pressure inline pump on the frame rail runs 100% of the time;
it shuts off after 5 seconds with a "Key on/No start" position though.


FYI- As you know the 1987-89 F150's have 3 fuel pumps with the frame mounted high-pressure pump pulling fuel from the Dual-Function Reservoir while it is being continuously refilled from one or the other low-pressure in-tank fuel pumps.

With that said, I think it is possible for one of the in-tank pumps to quit pumping fuel and the frame-mounted HP pump to continue to pull all of the fuel from the DFR until the engine dies from a lack of fuel. (It sucked it dry, there was no fuel pressure, almost no gas in my fuel filter and frame-mounted fuel pump the first time this happened, because I removed it all and installed a new filter, swapped the fuel pump with a spare I already had and almost no gas spilled out when I broke the connections, I re-installed the EEC computer and checked all fuses, put it all back together and still it would just spin and spin until I used Starting Fluid.

With the front tank full of fresh gas, all the engine would do was spin & spin and not start until I removed the air filter duct each time and sprayed Starting Fluid into the air intake while a friend turned the key to start the engine, it would start right up and then die. I continued to spray for about 20-25 seconds and then the engine continued to run on its own.
I drove my truck for over 3 months and there were no problems as long as I didn't switch to the back tank.

I think; the HP fuel pump loses prime and requires spraying Starting Fluid into the air intake to get it primed again.


I recently replaced the fuel pump in my rear fuel tank and no problems!

Hope this helps!

Last edited by 1987 F-150 XLT 4x4; 10-17-2010 at 08:21 PM. Reason: Added word
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Old 10-17-2010, 05:40 PM   #5
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I've ran my truck out of gas many times and never had to prime the pump. If the frame pump isn't getting gas but still runs it gets louder. You can bypass the fuel pump relay altogether to see if the pumps come on.
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Old 05-22-2011, 05:17 PM   #6
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Bringing back an old thread but I need to figure out which wires to jumper to bypass the fuel pump relay. I'm not getting power to my pump. I turned the key back and forth about 10 times and finally got it to start, drove it home, now it wont start again. I'm thinking its the relay but I want to bypass to test.
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Old 05-22-2011, 05:41 PM   #7
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Bringing back an old thread but I need to figure out which wires to jumper to bypass the fuel pump relay. I'm not getting power to my pump. I turned the key back and forth about 10 times and finally got it to start, drove it home, now it wont start again. I'm thinking its the relay but I want to bypass to test.
I believe #6 to ground.
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Old 05-22-2011, 06:39 PM   #8
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The fuel pump relay only has 5 terminals. There's a fuel pump ground on the eec test plug, so I would ground that one?

I bought a replacement relay since it was cheap but it made no difference. I used a test light and I'm getting voltage at the red wire going into the relay, and the white/yellow with green stripe. Which wire off the relay goes to the pump itself? I can't find a diagram with color or terminal number labels.
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Old 05-22-2011, 09:31 PM   #9
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Grounding the EEC fuel pump wire only energizes the relay, it does not bypass it. To bypass the relay you have to put power to the fuel pump wire at the relay. Don't remember your year or engine, but it's brown or green with a yellow stripe.
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Old 05-23-2011, 08:45 AM   #10
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Well I'm not sure exactly what I did, but its working now. I double checked all the connections, everything seemed fine. I turned the ignition on to test the eec terminal, and the fuel pump kicked on... I shut it on and off a few times with no problems. I guess there was a loose connection somewhere that I snugged up just enough. My guess is one of the wires going into the relay was loose.
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Old 05-23-2011, 08:45 AM
 
 
 
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