'89 F-150 302 wont run smooth, getting frustrated..
10-18-2011, 03:09 AM
#21
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try replacing the EGR Valve,if it gets stuck open it the computer system will compinsate for it and dump more gas,keeping the (NOx) levels high...,also cheack the charcoal canister,vaccum hoses,also try a high energy ignition coil with a set of quality platinum plugs...Bosh,NGK,Accel.
10-18-2011, 03:15 AM
#22
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Timing is set properly, engine does not have vacuum leaks, and the spark plug wires are not arcing on eachother.. I cannot create a change in idle spraying carb cleaner on the engine at the intake hoses, vaccum lines, and manifold.
Plugs are brand new and are gapped correctly, they probably have 20 miles on them and don't have a real burn pattern yet.
Dont think this truck has a PCV valve (will confirm this next sunday or maybe wednesday if I'm not working), but the hose is not collapsing, and the air filter is new.
The whole thing is starting to seem kinda silly to me... I'll check the Fuel Pressure next chance I get and will replace the Oxygen sensor.
Plugs are brand new and are gapped correctly, they probably have 20 miles on them and don't have a real burn pattern yet.
Dont think this truck has a PCV valve (will confirm this next sunday or maybe wednesday if I'm not working), but the hose is not collapsing, and the air filter is new.
The whole thing is starting to seem kinda silly to me... I'll check the Fuel Pressure next chance I get and will replace the Oxygen sensor.
Keep us in the loop.
This is for your year/ Pre HO firing order, to avoid cross fire condition (miss):
Last edited by ymeski56; 10-18-2011 at 03:41 AM.
10-18-2011, 03:32 AM
#23
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Best under $30 tool you can own for your truck. Ford OBD1 Code Reader : http://www.handsontools.com/Equus-In...ol_p_5574.html
(Purchase in store or online/ Great User Manual)
Last edited by ymeski56; 10-18-2011 at 03:37 AM.
10-18-2011, 11:58 AM
#24
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I changed the spark plug wire setup as described in the diagram, runs worse than before lol... I didn't know Ford did 1-4 on the passenger side and 5-8 on the driver side. Why does Ford have to be so different!!!! The idle tries to surge, but it's running so crappy that it cant.. lol What the hell did I do!!! Thank God I never have to rely on this thing for transportation!
Also: the engine will rev and it doesn't sound like it's missing, it just doesnt rev and derev as smoothly as before..
Last edited by RedResistance; 10-18-2011 at 12:21 PM.
10-18-2011, 12:22 PM
#25
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sean, this cleaned the idle up, edit: Before i changed the spark plug wire setup.
I changed the spark plug wire setup as described in the diagram, runs worse than before lol... I didn't know ford did 1-4 on the passenger side and 5-8 on the driver side. Why does ford have to be so different!!!! The idle tries to surge, but it's running so crappy that it cant.. Lol what the hell did i do!!! Thank god i never have to rely on this thing for transportation!
I changed the spark plug wire setup as described in the diagram, runs worse than before lol... I didn't know ford did 1-4 on the passenger side and 5-8 on the driver side. Why does ford have to be so different!!!! The idle tries to surge, but it's running so crappy that it cant.. Lol what the hell did i do!!! Thank god i never have to rely on this thing for transportation!
Wondering about plug wire integrity.
Last edited by ymeski56; 10-18-2011 at 12:26 PM.
10-18-2011, 12:25 PM
#26
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try replacing the EGR Valve,if it gets stuck open it the computer system will compinsate for it and dump more gas,keeping the (NOx) levels high...,also cheack the charcoal canister,vaccum hoses,also try a high energy ignition coil with a set of quality platinum plugs...Bosh,NGK,Accel.
10-18-2011, 12:33 PM
#27
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10-18-2011, 12:42 PM
#28
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Put a timing light on each wire, I don't have a miss, and I double checked the timing with the SPOUT connecter disconnected. 10deg BTDC. Idles at ~700 RPMS continuously until I give the truck any kind of input I.E. Steering wheel or throttle, then it attempts to lobe. Smells hella rich out of the tailpipe, my mother indoors said it smells rich lol.
10-18-2011, 12:52 PM
#29
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There are two kind's. Both fit.
One is adjustable w/ elongated mount holes to allow adjustment.
One is "non-adjustable". 89' call's for non-adjustale.
I tried installing an adjustable on my 87'. Could not get it within range. You could test TPS sensor for proper range w/ a meter.
More than .9 at closed throttle, but less than 1.0
.97 seem's to be the sweet spot for ours.
Can't remember the implication for Sean's key trick.
Last edited by ymeski56; 10-18-2011 at 12:54 PM.
10-18-2011, 01:05 PM
#30
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New TPS right?
There are two kind's. Both fit.
One is adjustable w/ elongated mount holes to allow adjustment.
One is "non-adjustable". 89' call's for non-adjustale.
I tried installing an adjustable on my 87'. Could not get it within range. You could test TPS sensor for proper range w/ a meter.
More than .9 at closed throttle, but less than 1.0
.97 seem's to be the sweet spot for ours.
Can't remember the implication for Sean's key trick.
There are two kind's. Both fit.
One is adjustable w/ elongated mount holes to allow adjustment.
One is "non-adjustable". 89' call's for non-adjustale.
I tried installing an adjustable on my 87'. Could not get it within range. You could test TPS sensor for proper range w/ a meter.
More than .9 at closed throttle, but less than 1.0
.97 seem's to be the sweet spot for ours.
Can't remember the implication for Sean's key trick.
Dont have a multimeter... yet. I've been using my neighbors, but he just fell off a ladder and is in the hospital with two broken ribs and a punctured lung... Good a time as any to cough up the cash I was gonna use for the cat for my truck and just buy a meter. Gonna be buying a Fluke tomorrow.
The truck really runs... stiff is how I wanna put it. It sounds like it's got a cam in it lol.