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Old 07-18-2010, 07:40 PM
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Gosh darnit, now I look like an ***

Last edited by James_G; 07-18-2010 at 07:42 PM.
Old 07-18-2010, 07:44 PM
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dont we all at times...
Old 07-18-2010, 09:28 PM
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10-4 on the Seafoam. I'll do it tomorrow.
Two great links - thanks.

As far as the cap & rotor go, is this right?
http://www.msdignition.com/product.a...581&terms=8482

The exposed parts around the outside (both sides) are brass, but the middle one is silver color as is the rotor.

I would like to get the right one so if I want to do the ignition upgrade later, I can.

This has been a great help.
Thanks
Old 07-18-2010, 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by jodysgarage
10-4 on the Seafoam. I'll do it tomorrow.
Two great links - thanks.

As far as the cap & rotor go, is this right?
http://www.msdignition.com/product.a...581&terms=8482

The exposed parts around the outside (both sides) are brass, but the middle one is silver color as is the rotor.

I would like to get the right one so if I want to do the ignition upgrade later, I can.

This has been a great help.
Thanks
Looks good ta me! MSD Low resistance Superconductor plug wires sure would look good w/ that. In fact they were designed for it. Then all that's left is a hi output/ low resistance Coil (say 48K volt or more) & your officially a member of the unofficial Forum Ignition system Upgrade Club!!

Although just a healthy ignition system allows you to increase your base timing, The upgrade allows you to increase your stock plug gap by 20-25%, and a big *** spark kernel is your performance & MPG friend!!! The only Mod I know of that gives you both at the same time.
Old 07-18-2010, 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by ymeski56
Looks good ta me! MSD Low resistance Superconductor plug wires sure would look good w/ that. In fact they were designed for it. Then all that's left is a hi output/ low resistance Coil (say 48K volt or more) & your officially a member of the unofficial Forum Ignition system Upgrade Club!!

Although just a healthy ignition system allows you to increase your base timing, The upgrade allows you to increase your stock plug gap by 20-25%, and a big *** spark kernel is your performance & MPG friend!!! The only Mod I know of that gives you both at the same time.
full exhaust? just sayin...
Old 07-18-2010, 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by James_G
Gosh darnit, now I look like an ***
Good for your particular situation (not using a o2 sensor) but not for him.

That sensors purpose for existing, is to enable the ECU to enforce a 14.68:1 air/fuel ratio. That puts you rather close to a leaned out Ping threshold as it is. Intentionally running a hotter plug would just push it over the cliff, or have you chasing up the octane ladder to try to appease the "Ping God".

This is a good place to learn stuff in general & especially specific to our generation truck. I think one one of the hardest thing to grasp, is what the ECU won't put up with, or must have, & what it could care less about (or will allow you to do).

This Thread is a good example:https://www.f150forum.com/f10/cam-ad...mpleted-57892/

The ECU can be your friend, or your worst enemy. If you really want to **** off your ECU, take away it's o2 sensor function! Oh, you did that already! How's your MPG? I'm guessing..........10 MPG.

Last edited by ymeski56; 07-18-2010 at 10:30 PM.
Old 07-19-2010, 09:26 PM
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I was hoping this would be my final post and wrap this issue up.
Instead, I have come full circle.

This whole quest started with my truck idling weird.
I posted this and got no reply, but I was vague and had no direction: https://www.f150forum.com/f10/old-tr...problem-57848/
To save you reading it, I'll tell you the idle goes up and down on its own.
I can be sitting in P or D for that matter at a dead stop and it will rev on its own.
Driving while it is happening is really interesting.
It just feels like a choke is turning on and off with no rhyme or reason.
Engine hot or cold, rain or shine - whenever.
The truck is also able to go for stretches without the issue.

This temporarily cleared up yesterday after I changed the O2 sensor.
I thought that had to be it.

Today I put the new distributor cap on and took a test drive- ran great.
Did the Seafoam treatment. Lots of smoke. Looks like it did a good job.
Driving it after the Seafoam treatment to get the last of the smoke out, it felt like it used to.

I am not blaming the Seafoam. It is obviously something else.
It's an interesting product and I enjoyed reading up on it.

The sad part is that all of these steps I have taken have made it better and better.
I finally got to feel this truck run the way it is supposed to.
Now I KNOW what is CAN run like. So, in a way that is a breakthrough.

I am now completely stumped. Has anyone experienced the same symptoms?
What else would cause it to vary the rpms like that?

I sure appreciate all the help I have received and I hope someone has seen this before.

Thanks
Old 07-19-2010, 10:13 PM
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a wise man once showed me this site and i got my truck running tip top shape http://fordfuelinjection.com/ i will let this wise man smile to himself
Old 07-20-2010, 10:03 AM
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I had an idle issue and it was pretty close to what your having. After checking the TPS and IACV ( throttle position sensor and Idle air control valve) $32.00 and $75.00 respectively I have a smooth idle, whereas before the idle would fluctuate from say 750 to 1800 rpm. I cleaned the Throttle body while I had it off to change these sensors. I am thinking I may have been able cleaning the iacv instead of changing it.. But the tps was shot as voltages were way off and constant. I would change the tps and attempt to clean the iacv as well as check EGR valve for vacuum leak . Also double check the small red and black hard plastic lines coming off the vacuum canister ...looks like a tin can ( literally looks like a tin can) located on passenger fender well. If those are damaged you will have idle issues as I did. Then you best need to check every vacuum line you have for cracks/ rubs and holes.. Betting most are OEM hoses and old and brittle, especially at the ends where they connect. Changing these sensors cost me $100 and took 20 minutes. I suggest you look at the IACV for carbon build up dirt ect before you spend the $75.00 as this can be a easy fix to clean the valve and save a lot of bucks. However if the TPS is suspect it can't really be fixed other than replacing it at around $ 32 bucks. Also do your best to keep plug wires from overlapping by using looms to separate them to avoid cross firing, especially when you got to better coil and ignition system, plus don't skimp on wires... Avoid the cheap ones!
Hope this helps
Old 07-20-2010, 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by ymeski56
Good for your particular situation (not using a o2 sensor) but not for him.

That sensors purpose for existing, is to enable the ECU to enforce a 14.68:1 air/fuel ratio. That puts you rather close to a leaned out Ping threshold as it is. Intentionally running a hotter plug would just push it over the cliff, or have you chasing up the octane ladder to try to appease the "Ping God".

This is a good place to learn stuff in general & especially specific to our generation truck. I think one one of the hardest thing to grasp, is what the ECU won't put up with, or must have, & what it could care less about (or will allow you to do).

This Thread is a good example:https://www.f150forum.com/f10/cam-ad...mpleted-57892/

The ECU can be your friend, or your worst enemy. If you really want to **** off your ECU, take away it's o2 sensor function! Oh, you did that already! How's your MPG? I'm guessing..........10 MPG.
Yea I see what you're saying.

The truck came too me w/o an o2 sensor and ran like an absolute slob due to plugs that were not able to handle the richer than normal mix.

I've been wanting to install a new o2 sensor but have yet to get around too it (obviously).

And 10 mpgs would be a pretty close estimate, add 35'' tires,stock gears and a 17 year olds lead foot and I can assure you that I'm not getting anywhere too far away from home.


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