-30 Weather, will it handle it?
#1
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-30 Weather, will it handle it?
So I'm heading up in Northern Alberta soon to the oil patch, somewhere North of Edmonton. I have to take the F150 up there, and Im already scared as hell of driving it +1000kms, but now Im stressing if it can even handle the temps that area gets in winter (-20C to -30C is regular).
Its an older truck so I'm already scared of using synthetic oil, as it could make a small leak worse from what I've heard. Ive got brand new winter tires, but every thing else is in the air at the moment. There is no block heater installed on the 302, is that worth getting put on?
I just need it for a few months until I upgrade to a newer version, what would you guys to to insure it makes it that far?
Its an older truck so I'm already scared of using synthetic oil, as it could make a small leak worse from what I've heard. Ive got brand new winter tires, but every thing else is in the air at the moment. There is no block heater installed on the 302, is that worth getting put on?
I just need it for a few months until I upgrade to a newer version, what would you guys to to insure it makes it that far?
#2
Drive like you stole it
Coolant MUST be rated for those temps and in good condition, a slightly lighter weight oil may not be a bad idea, hoses and belts should be like new condition, good battery and yes I would install a block heater, that makes the thing much easier to start.
#3
Cycle For Fun and Health
You don't really give us much of a condition report.
Make sure your fluids are all in proper order. Oil is going to be an issue with the dino and probably higher weight.
The block and or oil heater would certainly be a plus as would an extra battery and good jumper cables.
Many other possibilities of emergency tools and equipment possible - depends mostly on the condition of the truck
Make sure your fluids are all in proper order. Oil is going to be an issue with the dino and probably higher weight.
The block and or oil heater would certainly be a plus as would an extra battery and good jumper cables.
Many other possibilities of emergency tools and equipment possible - depends mostly on the condition of the truck
#4
Drive like you stole it
Few more things I would get in order: change out trans/xfer case/ differential fluids. Flush out the old brake fluid to ensure no water is in the lines. New fuel filter.
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Details:
Current oil is 10w30non synthetic, needs changing(to what?)
180,000kms, drives great, 5spd man grinds sometimes going into reverse but otherwise works great.
Coolant needs doing (has lake water/antifreeze from a highway breakdown)
Front brakes are brand new, back drums were about 30% 2 months ago)
Brand new 32x10.5 Bfg a/t winter tires
Something funky going on where I have to wiggle a wire of the solenoid to get the bastard to start when it's cold.
It does burn/leak oil, although I haven't noticed any leaks, but it loses about a quart every 1000kms( serious?)
Rear diff has a wet mark that looks like a little leak, also serious?
Current oil is 10w30non synthetic, needs changing(to what?)
180,000kms, drives great, 5spd man grinds sometimes going into reverse but otherwise works great.
Coolant needs doing (has lake water/antifreeze from a highway breakdown)
Front brakes are brand new, back drums were about 30% 2 months ago)
Brand new 32x10.5 Bfg a/t winter tires
Something funky going on where I have to wiggle a wire of the solenoid to get the bastard to start when it's cold.
It does burn/leak oil, although I haven't noticed any leaks, but it loses about a quart every 1000kms( serious?)
Rear diff has a wet mark that looks like a little leak, also serious?
#6
Senior Member
Put in 0w-30 synthetic (I'm sure it's widely available up there) and worry about leaks later. I'd be more concerned about startup protection than leaks.
If you don't want to go with synthetic, at least use a 5w-30 conventional oil. 10w-30 isn't built for those kinds of freezing temps.
As far as the oil consumption, the valve stem seals are notoriously bad on the 302s from the factory. Replacing those in most instances stops the oil consumption.
If you don't want to go with synthetic, at least use a 5w-30 conventional oil. 10w-30 isn't built for those kinds of freezing temps.
As far as the oil consumption, the valve stem seals are notoriously bad on the 302s from the factory. Replacing those in most instances stops the oil consumption.
#7
Dodge+Ford = always ready
what they said, but i gotta stress getting a good battery, my 150s battery had the life sucked out of it at -17, it was fine after a charge and i got the truck running but its a PITA if you gotta go somewhere right away or your out in the boondocks.
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#8
Get that lake water from the breakdown out of there. Drain, flush and make sure you go to tbe maximum percentage of antifreeze recommended by the manufacturer. (70 percent) Pour the antifreeze in fkrst to ensure you get the right amount in and circulate it through the heating system. 0w-30 synthetic oil will help alot. To guarentee starting, a freeze plug heater or one that goes into the lower radiator hose is king.
#9
Senior Member
I would change all the drivetrain fluids to Synthetic, and yes... 0W-30 for the engine
Definite Coolant flush
Definite Engine Block Heater
Fresh Battery would be a must
Definite Coolant flush
Definite Engine Block Heater
Fresh Battery would be a must
#10
Salvage Yard Pro
One of my coworkers just bought a 2012 F-150 on trade. This thing has 10K miles, 4 door, loaded with all leather and was bought new in Alaska. It is gasoline and has an aftermarket stick on block heater and a trickle charger tied into one electrical plug that was a dealer prep item. We plugged it up one night to see how it worked and the coolant temp was 80 degrees the next morning and the battery was at 13.5v. It was only in the 40's, but it worked like a champ. By the way, he only gave 17K for the truck with a 2010 Xcab trade in. Sticker in the glove box was $50K.
http://www.padheaters.co.uk/description.html
http://www.padheaters.co.uk/description.html