1996 F150 5.0L No spark. Starts when it wants too. why?
11-26-2010, 07:56 PM
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1996 F150 5.0L No spark. Starts when it wants too. why?
Hey guys. This is my first time on here. I hoping someone can help me out. Ive go a 96 F150. Over the last year or so the truck wont start sometimes and when i turn the key on and off alot it finally starts. I did a tune up like 5k before this started to happen. Recently, the truck won't start at all. So i did a simple spark test and i have no spark. This was on Wed. Today, it started fine. So i got a coil and replaced it and now i got no spark again. Also its been cold out here in jersey the last couple weeks and it seems like when its cold it wont start but when its warm does start. I don't know if that has anything to do with it or not.
I need some ideas here. Ive been told its the EEC on the fender. Someone told me its the coil. (obviously thats not it). And also its the pickup coil in the distributer. How can i test the EEC to narrow the problem down a little before i just start changing parts? Or test the coil to make sure thats working even though its new? Any help is much appreciated.
I need some ideas here. Ive been told its the EEC on the fender. Someone told me its the coil. (obviously thats not it). And also its the pickup coil in the distributer. How can i test the EEC to narrow the problem down a little before i just start changing parts? Or test the coil to make sure thats working even though its new? Any help is much appreciated.
11-26-2010, 09:24 PM
#2
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Welcome to the site!
1996 is a bit foreign to me - same relative generation, but on the threshold of OBD-I versus OBD-II. Perhaps user Sean or ymeski or others more knowledgeable can help here, as far as the accepted forum minimum of pulling codes.
The vehicle was designed to start each and every time without exception - cold / hot / raining / Cowboys loss becomes accepted fact / community organizer elected President / Korea implodes on itself, or whatever - just have to figure out what needs to be done to get back to that point.
At any rate - the TFI-IV module is the top suspect, IMO. On my vintage, it sits on the side of the distributor. As I understand things, this was moved to the fender in later years and perhaps is what you're calling the EEC module. This can be tested.
The next suspect is the PIP pickup inside the distributor. Again, there are tests - get a good Chiltons manual or other shop-type manual to walk you through the checks.
The coil is another suspect. You've eliminated this by replacement, although, again, there are resistance tests to run through as far as verifying the current unit.
Lastly is the switching ground, done through the computer. Again, there are tests for all of these - but beyond what I'm currently able to provide.
Random parts replacement is an expensive and uncertain approach. Been bit in the posterior more than once by installing a bad-out-of-box part and being left with not just one, but two problems to work through.
Good luck, and keep us posted.
1996 is a bit foreign to me - same relative generation, but on the threshold of OBD-I versus OBD-II. Perhaps user Sean or ymeski or others more knowledgeable can help here, as far as the accepted forum minimum of pulling codes.
The vehicle was designed to start each and every time without exception - cold / hot / raining / Cowboys loss becomes accepted fact / community organizer elected President / Korea implodes on itself, or whatever - just have to figure out what needs to be done to get back to that point.
At any rate - the TFI-IV module is the top suspect, IMO. On my vintage, it sits on the side of the distributor. As I understand things, this was moved to the fender in later years and perhaps is what you're calling the EEC module. This can be tested.
The next suspect is the PIP pickup inside the distributor. Again, there are tests - get a good Chiltons manual or other shop-type manual to walk you through the checks.
The coil is another suspect. You've eliminated this by replacement, although, again, there are resistance tests to run through as far as verifying the current unit.
Lastly is the switching ground, done through the computer. Again, there are tests for all of these - but beyond what I'm currently able to provide.
Random parts replacement is an expensive and uncertain approach. Been bit in the posterior more than once by installing a bad-out-of-box part and being left with not just one, but two problems to work through.
Good luck, and keep us posted.
11-27-2010, 09:47 AM
#3
April 2010 TOTM Winner
I agree with ^ wde3477
Ignition Control Module (ICM) is also known as the TFI-IV Ignition Coil.
Usually, the ICM is bad if the engine will not start after it has been driven and then later or the next day it starts normally.
There is a Special Tool to remove the 7/32" hex screws from the ICM
or it takes this tool to remove the ICM from the side of my 4.9L distributor.
Or it may be the:
PIP Sensor (Stator) in the distributor (Referred to as a Pickup Coil also)
Also:
On my 1987 F-150; there are two Relays on my driver's side fender,
one is Green (Fuel Pump) and the other is Brown (EEC)
You should hear a clicking sound coming from the Relays when turning the Key to Start.
Hope our responses help!
Ignition Control Module (ICM) is also known as the TFI-IV Ignition Coil.
Usually, the ICM is bad if the engine will not start after it has been driven and then later or the next day it starts normally.
There is a Special Tool to remove the 7/32" hex screws from the ICM
or it takes this tool to remove the ICM from the side of my 4.9L distributor.
Or it may be the:
PIP Sensor (Stator) in the distributor (Referred to as a Pickup Coil also)
Also:
On my 1987 F-150; there are two Relays on my driver's side fender,
one is Green (Fuel Pump) and the other is Brown (EEC)
You should hear a clicking sound coming from the Relays when turning the Key to Start.
Hope our responses help!
12-09-2010, 05:46 PM
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Thanks guys. Im still trying to determine what it is. I swaped out the ICM and that wasn't the problem. Then for a week the truck started no problem and now I'm back to where i was. It just so happens that i was touching the relays on the DS fender last night and it started, actually you could hear the ignition system power up like a machine. Then it started. I haven't had time to take them out and see if they are bad. The next step is to do these tests on the pickup on the distributer and so on. Thanks for the info for now guys. Ill keep you posted on what i HOPEFULLY find out!
12-14-2010, 06:05 PM
#7
Senior Member
Sounds dumb but soak the coil and surrounding wires with wd-40. Anytime my truck did that there was no spark and I would spray it and wait a couple minutes and bingo it would fire right up. Friend had same problem I told this to him he laugh at me and after messing with it for awhile he tried the WD-40 and his fired right up after a short wait. Same with a 3rd friend. so for 5bucks give it a try can't hurt.
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12-14-2010, 10:51 PM
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