nightowlll

Ok, I have a 1996 F150 with the 4.9L inline 6 Cylinder engine and a “no start” problem. I have tried to trouble shoot the problem. Here is what I have done so far:

Replaced Fuel pump – NEW
Checked Fuel pump relay – GOOD – I can hear the pump priming when I turn the key
Replaced Fuel Filter – NEW
Replaced spark plugs and plug wires – NEW
Replaced Distributor – NEW
Replaced Ignition Control Module – NEW
Replaced Ignition Coil – NEW

Checked compression in all 6 cylinders.
RESULT: Compression was 140+ psi in all 6 cylinders.

Checked spark at all of the wires where the boot comes off of the spark plug
RESULT: Spark at all plugs

Checked for spark at the ignition coil wire where it hooks to the center of the distributor cap. Pulled off the boot from the center of the distributor and plugged in a spark tester

RESULT: Spark is there

Checked fuel at the fuel line

RESULT: Fuel coming out of fuel pressure check valve

Turned Crankshaft to TDC (Top Dead Center) and removed spark plug number 1 to check if piston was at TDC. Piston #1 was indeed at TDC. Aligned distributor to ensure rotor was right in the center of distributor cap contact #1 while #1 piston was at TDC.

RESULT: Engine will not start when key is turned after the above was completed. I tried adjusting the distributor a little forward and behind as well (same result no start).

Oil Pump was not primed – I primed oil pump and then replaced distributor and repeated above and still no start. However, oil pressure gauge on dash now flips to indicate oil pressure while engine is cranking so oil pressure gauge (oil pressure sensor/switch) is now functioning and oil pump is now pumping.

Repeated TDC procedure and sprayed starting fluid in the throttle body and turned the engine over.

RESULT: Engine did not fire as if it wanted to start – no combustion

Removed SPOUT connecter and tried the above with SPOUT connecter in and with it out. Same result, no start no combustion.

I am dumbfounded. I’m not sure what else it could be.
Any advice would be much appreciated. I am back to reading the service manuals I have in hand but not sure what to look for at this point.

Please help. Thanks in advance for your time and assistance.

Sincerely,

Nightowlll

Just call me Sean

iTrader: (1)

All that work yet no mention of codes.

Warlockk

X2 if you got no start attempt with fluid we are looking at a spark issue. Check the codes first.

nightowlll

I had a code initially before I started all of this and it was a P0320 code. I changed the distributor and the Ignition control module and the codes went away. Also, checked the codes again recently and no codes are coming up.

I have previously done a lot of electrical testing and narrowed it down to the PIP sensor in the distributor finally and that's why I changed the distributor. I used a test LED and tested the signal from the PIP to the ICM and it was sending one to the ICM after I changed the distributor but still no start.

Just call me Sean

iTrader: (1)

Do you have the distributor 180 out? Are you sure it didn't jump time? Which is hard to do on a 4.9.

nightowlll

It could be out 180 I guess. I'm not sure how to check that though....?

I turned the crankshaft to TDC and removed the spark plug from cylinder #1 and it was at the top of the stroke. Is that how you check that? I went to the auto parts store and bought one of those remote start guns that you hook to the starter solenoid and then I pulled the trigger to turn the engine over while rotating the distributor clockwise and it started to sound like it was going to backfire once I turned the distributor around 30 degrees clockwise.

Someone was telling me it could be the EGR Valve? Or EGR system? Does this sound likely? Would a faulty EGR keep the engine from starting considering everything else I have mentioned?

Just call me Sean

iTrader: (1)

That's how you check top dead center, it could be on the exhaust stroke. You need it on compression. The crankshaft spins twice for every one rotation of the distributor and cam.

nightowlll

Ohhhh,....so,....how do I check if it is out 180 or not? If it is out, how do I fix it?

Warlockk

On the exhaust stroke the exhaust valve will be open. To be sure you can pull the timing cover. The quick way though is to pull the spark plug and hold your finger over the hole. You will feel strong pressure in the compression stroke and less on the exhaust.

nightowlll

Well I wanted to say thanks to you guys for your help!!! I checked the crankshaft position and it was out 180. I reset the distributor and rotor to sync with the compression stroke and she fired right up!!! Running like a champ!!! I will post pictures soon!