1995 throttle position sensor
11-21-2012, 11:02 PM
#11
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This may sound stupid but you might even check your floor matt..... I had a rip in mine and it on several occasions managed to hold my accelerator pedal down when I was backing off of it. It took me about three times before I caught on to what was causing it, my foot was twisting the floor matt as I drove and once in while it would be enough to catch the edge of the pedal and keep it from returning.
06-18-2015, 08:00 AM
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sounds like fuel pump, while off, turn on, and listen for pump inside tank.
Hi, sounds like fuel pump, while off, turn key on, and listen or have friend listen for pump to come on inside tank. If it doesn't come on, you would know that is the problem.
I was here reading this thread because I thought the trouble I am having may be TPS related, but after reading this thread that now seems unlikely.
I am bit jiggered as to what to think at the moment..... It was stated that TPS problems should throw a code.... from what I can tell I am throwing no codes, but then I heve not been able to find anyone yet that can test OBD1, but my check engine light has never once come on and as far as I know that should mean no code registered.
I just bought this truck a 1995 f150 with the 351 Windsor engine in it about 4 months ago. The thing runs like a top and man it is nice getting 17 mpg, I am used to my 78 GMC 4 door 1 ton 4wd with a 454 in it, on a good day I get ten mpg.
Like I said this new 95 Ford runs like a top, it has 127,000 miles on it, runs smooth plenty of power it is for all intensive purposes perfect... Except that every now and then it can takes 10 to 15 minutes maybe 20 to 50 times turning it over to get it to start. It is not common but happens maybe 1 out of every 30 times trying to start it. It also once in a while just dies, like someone reached up and turned the key off while running down the road. Most of the time I can just keep pushing the pedal and it will restart, often times it will do this two to three time just out of the blue. Sometimes it will not restart and I pull over too the side of the road, most times I can get it to restart within 3 to 20 times trying to get it to restart anywhere from about 3 minutes to 10 minutes time.
Last Saturday it went out and two hours later still nothing, I had been out looking at a horse to buy and it just so happened the guy had just bought the identicle truck to mine for parts and it ran perfect but had been rolled. We started changing out parts one at a time and testing the engine. We replaced all the relays, the idle sensor, the cap and rotor and thenthe coil, immediately after the coil it fired right up and ran great, figured we had solved the problem.
Not so lucky, the next day after several hours of flawless running it died again for about two hours, I got it running just before the tow truck got there, towed it home dropped it off and fired it right up and parked it.
I got on the internet and started reading about grounding problems, so I went out and cleaned up the ground and tightened it down, I noticed right away that a loud engine buzz on my AM radio station was nearly gone after that.... thought cool, I may be on to something. That afternoon I went and bought a brand new HP cap and rotor and the rest of the buzz in the radio station was gone, I thought awsome maybe it was just a noise problem in the power.
The truck has run flawlessly for the past four days, I have drivien it about 400 miles, this morning I took my son to work and 4 miles from the house it died three times on the highway at 60mph, luckily it restarted each time within 1 to 3 seconds and pushing the gas pedal. It ran perfectly again after that.
I will be replacing the TPS sensor no matter what after Thanksgiving, but like I said after reading here, it doesn't seem likely this will solve my issue. Anyone have any ideas?...... at this point I am running out of them.... After the TPS and a few days of driving testing, if it happens again, my next target is the ECM, anyone got any idea of anything else I should look at?... Handily I still have all the parts available from the identical truck to test with if need be, but at this point I am at a bit of a loss....
Any help would be vastly appreciated....
I am bit jiggered as to what to think at the moment..... It was stated that TPS problems should throw a code.... from what I can tell I am throwing no codes, but then I heve not been able to find anyone yet that can test OBD1, but my check engine light has never once come on and as far as I know that should mean no code registered.
I just bought this truck a 1995 f150 with the 351 Windsor engine in it about 4 months ago. The thing runs like a top and man it is nice getting 17 mpg, I am used to my 78 GMC 4 door 1 ton 4wd with a 454 in it, on a good day I get ten mpg.
Like I said this new 95 Ford runs like a top, it has 127,000 miles on it, runs smooth plenty of power it is for all intensive purposes perfect... Except that every now and then it can takes 10 to 15 minutes maybe 20 to 50 times turning it over to get it to start. It is not common but happens maybe 1 out of every 30 times trying to start it. It also once in a while just dies, like someone reached up and turned the key off while running down the road. Most of the time I can just keep pushing the pedal and it will restart, often times it will do this two to three time just out of the blue. Sometimes it will not restart and I pull over too the side of the road, most times I can get it to restart within 3 to 20 times trying to get it to restart anywhere from about 3 minutes to 10 minutes time.
Last Saturday it went out and two hours later still nothing, I had been out looking at a horse to buy and it just so happened the guy had just bought the identicle truck to mine for parts and it ran perfect but had been rolled. We started changing out parts one at a time and testing the engine. We replaced all the relays, the idle sensor, the cap and rotor and thenthe coil, immediately after the coil it fired right up and ran great, figured we had solved the problem.
Not so lucky, the next day after several hours of flawless running it died again for about two hours, I got it running just before the tow truck got there, towed it home dropped it off and fired it right up and parked it.
I got on the internet and started reading about grounding problems, so I went out and cleaned up the ground and tightened it down, I noticed right away that a loud engine buzz on my AM radio station was nearly gone after that.... thought cool, I may be on to something. That afternoon I went and bought a brand new HP cap and rotor and the rest of the buzz in the radio station was gone, I thought awsome maybe it was just a noise problem in the power.
The truck has run flawlessly for the past four days, I have drivien it about 400 miles, this morning I took my son to work and 4 miles from the house it died three times on the highway at 60mph, luckily it restarted each time within 1 to 3 seconds and pushing the gas pedal. It ran perfectly again after that.
I will be replacing the TPS sensor no matter what after Thanksgiving, but like I said after reading here, it doesn't seem likely this will solve my issue. Anyone have any ideas?...... at this point I am running out of them.... After the TPS and a few days of driving testing, if it happens again, my next target is the ECM, anyone got any idea of anything else I should look at?... Handily I still have all the parts available from the identical truck to test with if need be, but at this point I am at a bit of a loss....
Any help would be vastly appreciated....
10-25-2017, 05:18 PM
#13
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A fault with the TPS should have thrown a code, as seen by the Check Engine light.
Not sure how a TPS failure would cause the truck to keep accelerating - my experience has been that the engine bucks, farts, and pukes on any throttle changes.
Perhaps check for binding cable linkages???
Not sure how a TPS failure would cause the truck to keep accelerating - my experience has been that the engine bucks, farts, and pukes on any throttle changes.
Perhaps check for binding cable linkages???
10-25-2017, 05:45 PM
#14
10-25-2017, 05:48 PM
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10-25-2017, 07:33 PM
#16
CEL = check engine light
code 538, IIRC, is the "goose" test...hit gas to the floor to at least 1800-200 rpm and release...you have to hit it quick, else the test just goes on to the next one.
I would try and find, borrow or buy a small DMM
IF you go with a new TPS, spend the extra on the Ford part, some of the others are spastic and you will end up replacing them in a few months anyway....no money saved in the long run.
code 538, IIRC, is the "goose" test...hit gas to the floor to at least 1800-200 rpm and release...you have to hit it quick, else the test just goes on to the next one.
I would try and find, borrow or buy a small DMM
IF you go with a new TPS, spend the extra on the Ford part, some of the others are spastic and you will end up replacing them in a few months anyway....no money saved in the long run.
10-25-2017, 09:01 PM
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CEL = check engine light
code 538, IIRC, is the "goose" test...hit gas to the floor to at least 1800-200 rpm and release...you have to hit it quick, else the test just goes on to the next one.
I would try and find, borrow or buy a small DMM
IF you go with a new TPS, spend the extra on the Ford part, some of the others are spastic and you will end up replacing them in a few months anyway....no money saved in the long run.
code 538, IIRC, is the "goose" test...hit gas to the floor to at least 1800-200 rpm and release...you have to hit it quick, else the test just goes on to the next one.
I would try and find, borrow or buy a small DMM
IF you go with a new TPS, spend the extra on the Ford part, some of the others are spastic and you will end up replacing them in a few months anyway....no money saved in the long run.
10-27-2017, 12:10 AM
#19
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$27. Buy it:
Not sure if the scanner is worth more than the book you get w/ it, or the book you get is worth is worth more than the scanner.
Why? Because the code definitions are broken up by, "Are you driving an OBD1 Car, or Truck?"
So regarding Code#538.
Car: Test condition: KOER (Key On Engine Running). Insufficient RPM change durring KOER dynamic responce test. ((Not enough throttle added when you were supposed to have added throttle)
Truck:Test condition: KOER, Invalid cylinder balance test due to throttle movement during test. (Throttle added out of test sequence/ At the wrong time)
Last edited by ymeski56; 10-27-2017 at 12:01 PM.
11-05-2017, 01:25 PM
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