1995 F150 5.8L Idle problems? surge? choking?
#21
Senior Member
Actaully there is a thread on hear, and Sean can point it to you where you can check the codes yourself. But speaking of cleaning the IAC. Mine has a hanging RPM problem and I have replace the throttle position sensor and looked at the IAC. Mine wasn't dirty, at least not on the outside. There are two peices to the IAC. Is the sensor inside the tube part requiring removal to clean? I was afraid that i may break something loose.
#22
Obey Propaganda!
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Alright, my grandpa replaced the IAC, and replaced the EGR to see if it would have any effect, and it has had very little.
There isnt as much surging, but it is def. still there.
We have yet to run codes, which is probably something we should do.
There isnt as much surging, but it is def. still there.
We have yet to run codes, which is probably something we should do.
#23
Senior Member
This thread will show you how to retrieve codes:
https://www.f150forum.com/f10/how-retrieve-trouble-codes-obdi-10907/
https://www.f150forum.com/f10/how-retrieve-trouble-codes-obdi-10907/
#24
I had the same symptoms on my 1993 F-150, and it turned out to be the fuel pressure regulator. The symptoms were most prominent in stop-and-go situations (drive through, stop sign, etc.). Occasionally, I would have to two-foot it at the stop light to keep it from dying. A friend of mine also noted the exhaust smelled of fuel. Eventually, it got to the point where it wouldn't start, or would run only briefly before dying.
We replaced the coolant temperature sensor, spark plugs (which were fouled), O2 sensor, ... no luck. Replacing the fuel pressure regulator did the trick, though. Apparently, the fuel pressure to the injectors was running high, flooding the engine.
There's a port where you can monitor the fuel pressure, but I didn't have the equipment, so I just replaced the part (about $25). It requires disconnecting a vacuum line then removing 3 hex head screws (5/32"). That's the only hard part: the screws are upside down and there's much room to get a hex wrench in there. It's not really hard --- it just requires patience.
Hope this helps.
We replaced the coolant temperature sensor, spark plugs (which were fouled), O2 sensor, ... no luck. Replacing the fuel pressure regulator did the trick, though. Apparently, the fuel pressure to the injectors was running high, flooding the engine.
There's a port where you can monitor the fuel pressure, but I didn't have the equipment, so I just replaced the part (about $25). It requires disconnecting a vacuum line then removing 3 hex head screws (5/32"). That's the only hard part: the screws are upside down and there's much room to get a hex wrench in there. It's not really hard --- it just requires patience.
Hope this helps.
hopefully the FPR dose the trick cause this is driving me nuts
#25
Unplug the IAC and it should idle perfect. If not somethin else is wrong. Spray some carb cleaner around any vaccum lines/connections and see if the idle goes up. If it does then ur getting extra air from a leak. If those ideas dont help then make sure ur air and fuel filters r good. Anything else should show up on a code. Plugs and wires too. Open hood while running and dark and look for wires jumping. It looks like minature lightning but it has to be
really dark. Good luck
really dark. Good luck
#26
try.....
Unplug the IAC and it should idle perfect. If not somethin else is wrong. Spray some carb cleaner around any vaccum lines/connections and see if the idle goes up. If it does then ur getting extra air from a leak. If those ideas dont help then make sure ur air and fuel filters r good. Anything else should show up on a code. Plugs and wires too. Open hood while running and dark and look for wires jumping. It looks like minature lightning but it has to be really dark. Good luck
#27
#28
Fuel Pump.
FUEL PUMPS. FUEL PUMPS. FUEL PUMPS.
95 F150 with 293,000 miles. (A Wednesday Truck) Original Engine. Re-Built Tranny and New rear end. All stock and original other than that.
Truck was surging, slipping, jumping. Wouldn't run until 2000+ RPMs, almost impossible to even get to 2000 RPMs.
Replaced wires, plugs, distributor cap/rotor, TPS. Nothing. Replaced alternator (it was bad). Nothing. Coils are good. Checked most other sensors and they are fine too. Ran a fuel pressure test, rear tank would get to 29 PSI (should be 38ish) but required reeving the engine and waiting. Had zero immediate pressure and wouldn't spike to 45 PSI when removing the vacuum line, like it should. Probably should replace the Fuel Pressure Regulator but since the Front tank fuel pump has been dead for a year and a half I just went ahead and replaced both pumps and the truck runs like its brand new again. (These were factory original fuel pumps I might add) Even with year and a half old gas in the front tank it runs fine.
Alternately, I think i read someones comment saying their truck will drop out of overdrive randomly. Mine does this too, and a little trick that might work is to press the select button by the speed odometer. I realize this makes zero sense but somehow it reengages the overdrive, at least on my truck. Faulty wiring, bad ground, I have no idea. An Electrician I am Not.
95 F150 with 293,000 miles. (A Wednesday Truck) Original Engine. Re-Built Tranny and New rear end. All stock and original other than that.
Truck was surging, slipping, jumping. Wouldn't run until 2000+ RPMs, almost impossible to even get to 2000 RPMs.
Replaced wires, plugs, distributor cap/rotor, TPS. Nothing. Replaced alternator (it was bad). Nothing. Coils are good. Checked most other sensors and they are fine too. Ran a fuel pressure test, rear tank would get to 29 PSI (should be 38ish) but required reeving the engine and waiting. Had zero immediate pressure and wouldn't spike to 45 PSI when removing the vacuum line, like it should. Probably should replace the Fuel Pressure Regulator but since the Front tank fuel pump has been dead for a year and a half I just went ahead and replaced both pumps and the truck runs like its brand new again. (These were factory original fuel pumps I might add) Even with year and a half old gas in the front tank it runs fine.
Alternately, I think i read someones comment saying their truck will drop out of overdrive randomly. Mine does this too, and a little trick that might work is to press the select button by the speed odometer. I realize this makes zero sense but somehow it reengages the overdrive, at least on my truck. Faulty wiring, bad ground, I have no idea. An Electrician I am Not.
#29
mattbarron94
This^^
You could start with the fuel filter hough, if it's dirty enough like mine was a fresh fuel filter will not disrupt the flow of fuel, worth the $15 especially if it's never been changed.
You could start with the fuel filter hough, if it's dirty enough like mine was a fresh fuel filter will not disrupt the flow of fuel, worth the $15 especially if it's never been changed.