GoCougs!

That wouldn't account for no spark but it's worth a shot at least looking at it since the pumps still have my curiosity going. Where is it located?

Chris_1

iTrader: (1)

Probably find the inertia switch in the passenger footwell above the carpet or behind the kick panel on the side.
But if you've got no spark and the pumps aren't priming, is the ignition even coming on ? Maybe have a look at the ignition switch bolted to the bottom of the column.
Do you have power to the coil ?
Did you try forcing the pumps ? read the post on checking codes (by JCMS) at the top, look at the picture with green arrows.

Ford 4x4

Yeah I figured the switch was a long shot but simple to look at. Here is that picture I posted last night. You wanna jump numbers 3 and 4

GoCougs!

Ok here's another update. I couldn't see a spark a few days ago so I started with a new coil, I wanted to get an MSD coil on it anyways so it was an excuse. I also got an actual spark tester instead of using a spark plug. Well with the new coil it still didn't start and with the spark tester hooked up to the #1 plug wire and grounded straight to the battery I can see spark so the ignition is not the problem. Honestly I'm not surprised cause I'm still not hearing the pumps prime. I was to get the truck to start today though. I disconnected both intake tubes from the throttle body and had my fiancee open the blades and I sprayed a bit of starting fluid down there. Then I told her to hold the gas down a bit and try to start it. After a second I sprayed a bit more starting fluid and she started up. Ran real ruff and my fiancee had to keep her foot on the gas to keep it going. She ran for about a minute and I told my fiancee to let off the gas, she idled rough for about 5 seconds and died.
So I now know I'm looking at a fuel issue and have to figure out where to go from here. What can cause both pumps not to prime and supply fuel? As mentioned before the relay has been swapped around and all the fuses are fine.

Chris_1

iTrader: (1)

Try forcing the pumps ^. It could also be a problem with the dash switch or the grounds, or the wires under the relay box.
Are you getting power at the inertia switch for 2 seconds when you cycle the key ? Into the dash switch ? Out of the dash switch ? Is your wiring to the tanks in good condition ?
After that, you're dropping a tank to check for power and ground.
I'd do the other tests that have been suggested (as far back as manuellabor's first post) first.

GoCougs!

How is this done?
I've been hoping this would be something easier, I hate chasing wiring problems. I worked on electronics for naval aircraft for 11 years and I'll still take a mechanical problem over an electrical one any day of the week.

Chris_1

iTrader: (1)

At the top of the page is a sticky posted by Just call me Sean on how to read obd1 codes. In one of the pictures with green arrows all over it it shows the fuel pump grounding slot. Activating that circuit will force the pumps on - unless there is a break in the wiring somewhere. It's a test port.

GoCougs!

How long can you run them like this? Will it run both pumps or just the one selected by the dash switch? And I'm assuming if the pumps run in this condition and the truck starts then I know the pumps are good and it's something in-between, right?

GoCougs!

So I grounded out that pin this morning to force the pump on. I could hear the pump running but could not get the truck to start.

GoCougs!

I went out today to continue troubleshooting the truck since its the first day it hasn't been raining in a few days. I got a fuel pressure gauge earlier this week and when I hooked it up I never saw the pressure dip below about 32 psi and go as high as about 40-41psi without the engine running. I could hear the pumps going off every once in a while. I was able to get it to start and run roughly for about ten seconds then she died. With fuel pressure looking good I tested the ignition system again and could not see a spark, I was using a spark tester grounded straight to the battery. I tested the power to the coil and it was good. Finally I tested the TPS and I think I found my problem. There is a good ground being sent to the TPS on the green wire but when I tested the black I had nothing. It read 0vdc with blades shut all the way to blades full open. I injected voltage onto this line and instantly heard the pumps prime. So I'm about 90% sure I've found my problem.
Now I have the joy of replacing it. Too bad it isn't on the top of the throttle body like it is on a mustang 5.0L.