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1995 5.8 wont crank

Old 10-21-2015, 10:12 AM
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Default 1995 5.8 wont crank

My 1995 f150 5.8 XLT has about 215k miles and will only crank when it wants to. I put the key in, turn it, lights come on, but not even an attempt to crank or sputter unless it feels like it. For a while I was using a screwdriver to jump the solenoid to get it started. I was sure it was the solenoid that was the problem so I finally replaced it.... Didn't work.
The battery cable ends looked pretty rough and corroded so I replaced them...still nothing
I was frustrated so I went and bought all new spark plugs, wires, distributer cap, rotor, and ignition coil. Changed them all and for a day or two she started right up every time I turned the key. Throttle response was better, and it drove great. (It was like some crazy dream). Now I'm back to the screwdriver... HELP
Old 10-21-2015, 10:45 AM
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Check wires and clean up your grounds in the engine bay, including the bolts for the solenoid as they help ground it.
Old 10-21-2015, 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by fltdriver
Check wires and clean up your grounds in the engine bay, including the bolts for the solenoid as they help ground it.
Are their any wires I'm looking for in particular? And do I need to sand the ground wires so they are all shiny and new again or just make sure they are touching metal...?
Old 10-22-2015, 10:33 AM
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1994 F150 XLT 5.8L 2wd
 
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Best to sand the eyelets and frame to make it shiny, wire brush the bolts, after assembling coat with dielectric grease to help keep corrosion at bay.

Nothing specific as far as wires, anything with the ignition system, you may also want to check your ignition relay, try swapping it out with another that you know works (horn, etc...). Also the ignition switch and actuator rod.

Also cleaning up your ignition related connectors with quick dying electronic clean will help prevent future problems/may solve this one.
Old 10-22-2015, 10:50 AM
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When it won't crank, use a test light on the little push on connector on the fender mount solenoid to see if it gets power when you turn the key to start.
If it does and won't crank the problem is between the battery and starter somewhere.
If it doesn't get power there, the problem is at the ignition switch on the column or somewhere between there and the solenoid on the fender.
Old 10-22-2015, 09:26 PM
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Default Update 1

I started checking wires around my starter and figured I might as well take it in and have it tested....
Even though it was caked in oil and dirt, it worked all three times they tested it! That saved me $60, so that was nice, but I noticed that both positive and negative lead wires off the starter were exposed. So I cut, cleaned, and spliced them (with electric tape because the crimp NAPA gave me was too small and I didn't want to be in the rain any longer); hooked it all back up, and..... nothing... It ran for a few minutes and died... It actually ran worse for a while. Throttle response was terrible just driving it around the block before I parked it and gave it 5k RPMs. Then it would bog down and pick itself back up. Eventually it seemed to even itself out.
Could this be because I may not have disconnected the negative battery lead and almost shocked the **** out of myself before reconnecting the starter? Or is this just because after I disconnected the negative lead, it needs to adjust itself?
Old 10-22-2015, 10:14 PM
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If you disconnected the battery, you erased the stored learning codes in the computer. It needs to relearn a few things from being driven around a bit. Then see how it acts.


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