1992 f250 4x4 locking hub problem and idle problem - Ford F150 Forum

ChargerOnDavins · 08-26-2009, 04:59 AM

I just bought a 1992 F250 w/ the 351 windsor 5.8 4x4 truck. It has 84,000 miles and a rebuilt trans.

Sorry for the noob questions to follow, I have minimal knowledge on mechanics and would appreciate the help!

Firstly, I have the replacement bearings for the hub, it's the driver side. I took it apart with the star bit, paid close attention to where things go, got it apart.. there are metal shards everywhere so that was defnitely the problem.

However, I get everything off and both "clips" the one that bends around the entire hub, and the smaller one at the center... I can't get the unit out so I can install a new one. I just can't figure out how to remove it. It moves when I turn it a bit, even up and down, but I can't man-handle it off.

Is there a write-up that I can't find to fix this?

Also, is it stuck engaged? How do I know.. it felt hot when I messed with it.. not sure if that's normal, I'm a bit new to mechanics.

Also, there's a bit of an idle issue which gets worse with air conditioning or the blower in general (heat or air) and if I hit the gas when the idle goes down it nearly stalls the truck. I don't see any vaccum leaks and it will sometimes run just fine.

Also, my interior lights are dim... but when I rev the engine, they dont get brighter so I don't think it's the alternator. The battery gauge stays smack dab in the middle of the gauge, maybe slightly higher than the middle when driving it. When puttering, obviously, it cuts down a bit. The battery is fine I suspect since I ran out of gas stupidly (rear tank doesn't work, thought I had a full tank... but it was still using front tank and the rear gauge said full) Battery survived probably 30 start-up attempts (Stupid I know).

Also, the rear tank doesn't work but the owner says "the switch doesn't work" but also that the tank itself doesn't work...

I switched it on the interstate and it didn't putter and nearly die so I assumed all was well. Should I see if they tampered with the switch? How hard is the fuel pump to replace? I also have that part already.

Thanks in advance folks!

ChargerOnDavins · 08-27-2009, 02:31 AM

bump? Anybody?

m8r8j · 08-27-2009, 02:47 AM

to check if the hubs are engaged try to spin the front driveshaft- if it spins freely, and the hubs dont spin, they arent engaged..

but if it wont spin without turning the wheel, they are engaged...

and about the idle problem, try seafoaming or injector cleaner... id try lucas

sorry, thats all i can help with

ChargerOnDavins · 08-27-2009, 03:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by m8r8j

to check if the hubs are engaged try to spin the front driveshaft- if it spins freely, and the hubs dont spin, they arent engaged..

but if it wont spin without turning the wheel, they are engaged...

and about the idle problem, try seafoaming or injector cleaner... id try lucas

sorry, thats all i can help with

Doesn't that take awhile to work (seafoaming or injector cleaner)

Also, I don't have a means of lifting the truck up ATM to test this..

EDIT: Just read up on seafoam. I may just buy a can and see what happens.

ChargerOnDavins · 08-27-2009, 09:37 AM

morning bump

mitchalvin · 08-27-2009, 10:22 AM

You do not really need to lift the truck to check the hubs, just try and turn the front driveshaft. Remember though that if the front hub dial is off they will be locked, put a couple of the screws back into the hub for a handle to try and remove it. If you have removed both clips, the center one around the axle and the other one between the locking hub body and the actual wheel hub then it should come out. The heat that you felt could be from the brakes dragging slightly or more likely from the bad wheel bearings. Try turning the headlight switch and seeing if that brighten or dims the dash lights, the brightest should be right before you turn on the dome light.

ChargerOnDavins · 08-28-2009, 03:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mitchalvin

You do not really need to lift the truck to check the hubs, just try and turn the front driveshaft. Remember though that if the front hub dial is off they will be locked, put a couple of the screws back into the hub for a handle to try and remove it. If you have removed both clips, the center one around the axle and the other one between the locking hub body and the actual wheel hub then it should come out. The heat that you felt could be from the brakes dragging slightly or more likely from the bad wheel bearings. Try turning the headlight switch and seeing if that brighten or dims the dash lights, the brightest should be right before you turn on the dome light.

thank you.

Also, yeah turning on lights makes it run rough for a second but it recovers pretty quickly. Ran some seafoam int he gas tank today for about 50 miles, already a 40-60% improvement in idle... I gotta say I dont believe in additives but that stuff is amazing!