1990 F150 XLT Lariat Power Window Problems
#1
1990 F150 XLT Lariat Power Window Problems
Hello everyone! I have looked through all the existing threads on this forum with no real luck so here goes. My driver side window motor kind of stopped working a couple of months ago. And what I mean by "kind of" is that when I press the switch, I hear the motor working but it will not move the window up or down. I can assist the window by pulling it down and/or lifting it up. I am kind of getting tired of putting up with it and am ready to fix it. So is it the gears that need to be replaced, or the entire motor? Thanks in advance for any help that is given!
#2
The window motor is getting tired. You can start off by replacing the gears, if I recall they are plastic.
Mine did the same thing but I said to hell with it and replaced the motor for $40.
Mine did the same thing but I said to hell with it and replaced the motor for $40.
#3
Window motors
Hello everyone! I have looked through all the existing threads on this forum with no real luck so here goes. My driver side window motor kind of stopped working a couple of months ago. And what I mean by "kind of" is that when I press the switch, I hear the motor working but it will not move the window up or down. I can assist the window by pulling it down and/or lifting it up. I am kind of getting tired of putting up with it and am ready to fix it. So is it the gears that need to be replaced, or the entire motor? Thanks in advance for any help that is given!
#4
There are plastic bushings in the motor that will wear out and cause the motor to opperate but not do anything. If I were you I would buy a new motor. And like the other poster mentioned, if you remove the regulator along with the motor you will have to grind off the three rivets. What I did was replace the rivets with three 1/4" diameter by 1/2" long bolts. Now if I ever have to take it apart again it is much easier.
#6
Senior Member
You don't need a new motor.
Here's how to repair this problem:
Take the panels off the door. You will have to have window retainers to hold window in the up postion I recommend you contact the local MAC Tool distributor for the proper suction cup kit. You will have to drill out 4 rivets that hold the regulator to the door. Unplug harness from motor and slide regulator out of bottom window track...comes out very easily. Then lower motor down to clear vent wing and window track. Also you have a galvanized brace that also is the arm rest holder that will have to be removed (2 screws) to get the whole regulator out. Lift regultor up through hole. Make sure to hold your mouth right.
Next: unbolt motor from regulator (3 bolts) take cover off of motor (3 screws) there you will see the plastic drive attached to the metal gear that drives window. Just tap lightly with hammer and gear will pop off (not pressed on).
Next; you will have to cleanout all the gunk and old grease and will find the broken and chipped up plastic buttons that hold steel gear in place with the plastic drive gear. Once all that is done install new poppets in plastic gear and lube with new chassis grease install cover over drive.
Note: plug motor in to harness before installing in door to check drive operation should be real smooth.
To install just do the reverse. You will need 4 of 1/4-20 x 3/4 bolts nuts washers and star washers . Feed the bolts thru from inside, the studs will stick out after all is adjusted and tight cut them off as not to hit door panels when reinstalling them.
This is not a hard job estimate will take you several hours but not all day.
Hope this helps!!
I'll also give you the link to Jeffs Bronco grave yard that has all the correct parts for your project.
Here's how to repair this problem:
Take the panels off the door. You will have to have window retainers to hold window in the up postion I recommend you contact the local MAC Tool distributor for the proper suction cup kit. You will have to drill out 4 rivets that hold the regulator to the door. Unplug harness from motor and slide regulator out of bottom window track...comes out very easily. Then lower motor down to clear vent wing and window track. Also you have a galvanized brace that also is the arm rest holder that will have to be removed (2 screws) to get the whole regulator out. Lift regultor up through hole. Make sure to hold your mouth right.
Next: unbolt motor from regulator (3 bolts) take cover off of motor (3 screws) there you will see the plastic drive attached to the metal gear that drives window. Just tap lightly with hammer and gear will pop off (not pressed on).
Next; you will have to cleanout all the gunk and old grease and will find the broken and chipped up plastic buttons that hold steel gear in place with the plastic drive gear. Once all that is done install new poppets in plastic gear and lube with new chassis grease install cover over drive.
Note: plug motor in to harness before installing in door to check drive operation should be real smooth.
To install just do the reverse. You will need 4 of 1/4-20 x 3/4 bolts nuts washers and star washers . Feed the bolts thru from inside, the studs will stick out after all is adjusted and tight cut them off as not to hit door panels when reinstalling them.
This is not a hard job estimate will take you several hours but not all day.
Hope this helps!!
I'll also give you the link to Jeffs Bronco grave yard that has all the correct parts for your project.
The following users liked this post:
Rickrack7 (05-02-2016)
#7
Senior Member
Here's the link I promised it will show all the parts you need.
http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/c-...s____parts.htm
http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/c-...s____parts.htm
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#8
New member here, just registered specifically to thank all the posters in this thread and other threads about the helpful advice on the window motors. I also have a 90 f150 which had the dreaded "no traction from the motor" symptom. The description of the motor gear setup and the pics really helped.
I can't remember the other thread that posted also a fix on this, but there is also a super cheap fix for this... and super cheap is how I like my fixes, lol.
First, if you're not afraid of a little drilling (insert BP oil spill joke here), you don't have to take the entire regulator out. There are dimples in the inner door skin right in front of where two of the bolts for the motor are. Use an 11/16" drill bit (or larger, for more wiggle room) to cut a hole centered on each dimple, exposing the bolt heads for the motor. The third bolt is almost completely exposed, you can use an offset wrench or cut a bit of the door skin to fully expose it. Use a dab of paint over the newly exposed metal to prevent rust.
The motor comes right out through the speaker hole (remove speaker first). If you don't want to buy a new replacement gear set (and the plastic gear isn't chewed up or broken), you can use 5/16" nuts in place of the broken plastic bushings. They'll outlast the plastic gear and cost less than two bits. Make sure you test the motor before putting it back in and check for binding.
Took me a couple of hours, a lot of it figuring out where to drill the holes... nice for Ford engineers to put the dimples in there, maybe that's what they do when they replace these motors at the dealer?
Thanks again for all the good info on this site.
Daniel
I can't remember the other thread that posted also a fix on this, but there is also a super cheap fix for this... and super cheap is how I like my fixes, lol.
First, if you're not afraid of a little drilling (insert BP oil spill joke here), you don't have to take the entire regulator out. There are dimples in the inner door skin right in front of where two of the bolts for the motor are. Use an 11/16" drill bit (or larger, for more wiggle room) to cut a hole centered on each dimple, exposing the bolt heads for the motor. The third bolt is almost completely exposed, you can use an offset wrench or cut a bit of the door skin to fully expose it. Use a dab of paint over the newly exposed metal to prevent rust.
The motor comes right out through the speaker hole (remove speaker first). If you don't want to buy a new replacement gear set (and the plastic gear isn't chewed up or broken), you can use 5/16" nuts in place of the broken plastic bushings. They'll outlast the plastic gear and cost less than two bits. Make sure you test the motor before putting it back in and check for binding.
Took me a couple of hours, a lot of it figuring out where to drill the holes... nice for Ford engineers to put the dimples in there, maybe that's what they do when they replace these motors at the dealer?
Thanks again for all the good info on this site.
Daniel
#9
New member here, just registered specifically to thank all the posters in this thread and other threads about the helpful advice on the window motors. I also have a 90 f150 which had the dreaded "no traction from the motor" symptom. The description of the motor gear setup and the pics really helped.
I can't remember the other thread that posted also a fix on this, but there is also a super cheap fix for this... and super cheap is how I like my fixes, lol.
First, if you're not afraid of a little drilling (insert BP oil spill joke here), you don't have to take the entire regulator out. There are dimples in the inner door skin right in front of where two of the bolts for the motor are. Use an 11/16" drill bit (or larger, for more wiggle room) to cut a hole centered on each dimple, exposing the bolt heads for the motor. The third bolt is almost completely exposed, you can use an offset wrench or cut a bit of the door skin to fully expose it. Use a dab of paint over the newly exposed metal to prevent rust.
The motor comes right out through the speaker hole (remove speaker first). If you don't want to buy a new replacement gear set (and the plastic gear isn't chewed up or broken), you can use 5/16" nuts in place of the broken plastic bushings. They'll outlast the plastic gear and cost less than two bits. Make sure you test the motor before putting it back in and check for binding.
Took me a couple of hours, a lot of it figuring out where to drill the holes... nice for Ford engineers to put the dimples in there, maybe that's what they do when they replace these motors at the dealer?
Thanks again for all the good info on this site.
Daniel
I can't remember the other thread that posted also a fix on this, but there is also a super cheap fix for this... and super cheap is how I like my fixes, lol.
First, if you're not afraid of a little drilling (insert BP oil spill joke here), you don't have to take the entire regulator out. There are dimples in the inner door skin right in front of where two of the bolts for the motor are. Use an 11/16" drill bit (or larger, for more wiggle room) to cut a hole centered on each dimple, exposing the bolt heads for the motor. The third bolt is almost completely exposed, you can use an offset wrench or cut a bit of the door skin to fully expose it. Use a dab of paint over the newly exposed metal to prevent rust.
The motor comes right out through the speaker hole (remove speaker first). If you don't want to buy a new replacement gear set (and the plastic gear isn't chewed up or broken), you can use 5/16" nuts in place of the broken plastic bushings. They'll outlast the plastic gear and cost less than two bits. Make sure you test the motor before putting it back in and check for binding.
Took me a couple of hours, a lot of it figuring out where to drill the holes... nice for Ford engineers to put the dimples in there, maybe that's what they do when they replace these motors at the dealer?
Thanks again for all the good info on this site.
Daniel
#10
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I've got an 89 f150 xlt lariat, now here's my question, you say replace the plastic bushings that hold the gear in place http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-...epair-kit.html
On the website it says that's for 1992-96.
Now for an 1989 would I just need to get the gear repair set, and not need those bushings? http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-...epair-kit.html
The motors slipping and still just barely grabbing, I have to assist the motor.
I'd rather spend the 14 bucks and an hour of my time fixing the motor myself then 50-60 bucks on the new motor.
On the website it says that's for 1992-96.
Now for an 1989 would I just need to get the gear repair set, and not need those bushings? http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-...epair-kit.html
The motors slipping and still just barely grabbing, I have to assist the motor.
I'd rather spend the 14 bucks and an hour of my time fixing the motor myself then 50-60 bucks on the new motor.