unit505

I did not read all three pages, but I'll chime in anyway. The $20 adjustable temp controller from Advanced Auto Parts used as a relay trigger has worked going on three summers for me. Others who followed my suggestion have had zero failures. I am not familiar with the controller that you used, but it proves that more expensive stand alone units are no better than my complete $50 efan setup. Field tested and approved Economical parts are much more often the way to go.

Restof150s

I agree with him, analog is more of a real time reading. Digital multi meters (DMM), have a delay. I know when I power my snap-on brand multi meter up on a simple 12v car battery, there is a minimum of a 1 second delay.

Silent Echo

When I go in today after work I will have them test it with an analog to find out for sure. Thanks guys

Silent Echo

Using an analog amperage meter, we measured the initial startup on the high and low speed settings.
Low Speed: 15A start, 10A continuous High speed: 30A start, 25A continuous

So... The whole "word" floating around saying that this fan pulls 70-80A is a total myth. Unless I happened to get a mystery fan, I don't know where people are pulling these numbers. It would be great to see some other people's readings on this, because I won't believe a 70-80A draw until I see it.

I did get my Alternator upgraded to 130A. At idle I'm at 90A, and with AC on max, headlights on, radio up, and both power windows going up and down, my battery voltage never dropped below 14.21 Volts. Very satisfied with the upgrade. I did have to grind off some of the bracket near the air pump to clear it, but that was 5 minutes with a grinder.

I also talked with the guy at Action Alternators and Starters and told him about how the blade fuse melted into the terminal. He said that the only way that could melt is if the controller is drawing consistent amperage. So since this fan does NOT pull more that 30A, the controller should have been able to handle it. I am hoping I got a bad controller, and a replacement is on its way from Pennsylvania now. I spoke with Summit Racing, and they will give me a full refund if I decide too.

MGD

Sorry - yer still measuring it wrong - you need a good, fast recording/peak-reading digital ammeter or a digital 'scope across a calibrated load. Not a clamp-on, it needs to be an inline measurement. AND - the fan needs to be under load, not in free air (e.g. drawing against a rad).

Refer to DCC's measurements for an RF-269 ( same approximate CFM's ):

Motorcraft RF-269:

Small fan

Diameter 14.5"
Hub diameter 5.5"
Current (no load) 24.83A
Current under load 26.24A
Starting current 69.64A
cfm (no load) 2797 cfm

Large fan

Diameter 15"
Hub diameter 5.75"
Current (no load) 27.64A
Current under load 36.35A
Starting current 69.64A
cfm (no load) 2964 cfm


Total

Current (no load ) 52.47
Current under load 62.59A
Starting current 139.3A
cfm (no load) 5761 cfm

Source: https://www.f150forum.com/f4/motorcr...nstall-245343/

That fan is overstessing that controller. Period. Dot. Dot.

MGD

Silent Echo

Mmm, this is bumming me out. Well then, what controller would you recommend? Obviously you are partial to the DCC controllers, but I looked through some other forums, and you have to wait months for a stupid controller, and half the time you can't even get one. It looks as though a lot of people are using the Flex-a-lite controller.

Mod (Ret.)

The person that makes the DCC controller used to have a long turn around time, as well as he was extreemly poor on his email response. This was due to him having some health/back issues. He was completely down from the "scene" for a long while, and unfortunatly, this earned him a bad rap. My understanding is that he is back. I wrote an email to him (from his site) about three months ago, and got a response within 24 hours, stating I would receive a controller within a week (he had orders, and that was his current turn over time frame). If you are interested in one of his controllrs, venture over to his site, send him an email, and simply ask what his turn around time is, and decide if this is good for you.

His controllers are still top notch; my only complaint are the temp probes he sells (or used to sell); they are of the type that 'jab' into the fins of the radiator. This can/will eventually make the fins seperate from the tubing in that area, rendering that spot a "cool" spot (no longer cools). If you move the probe to another spot, you will continually create cool spots in your radiator; not good. The best temp prode is one that has the temperature sensor in an eyelet that bolts under an intake manifold bolt towards the rear (away from the radiator).

While expensive to some that have posted here, I like the Ron Francis controller too. It's wiring is clearly labled on the insulation as to where/what its used for, making for an easy, clean wire setup. I'm not a huge fan (no pun here) of using crimps to connect wires, but the ones that come with his kits are not the cheap type you get at wally mart or auto parts stores; these are good grade crimps, and used sparingly when possible. His circuit board has LED's to indicate the temp setting so you know visually the temp that the fan(s) will turn on/off, and there are dip switches to disable/enable fan operation for things like when the vehicle is in motion (fans turn off when wind drag is detected; above 20 MPH as an example), or if you want the fans to operate for 5 minutes after ignition turn off. Nice kit; very popular with the street rod folks. The wiring is all correct guage for its application(s), and it has the correct relay(s) for one or two fan operation.

One thing to remember; you get what you pay for. I don't ever wish to be stranded on the side of a road because my fan is not working due to a "foreign built controller kit" I got for cheap.

MGD

Good morning, and thank-you.

I too have never had a problem communicating with Brian Baskin (DCC's founder and owner). Each controller is hand-built and if installed properly, bulletproof. He's a stand-up feller.

Allow me to offer my apologies here to the OP - I'm not bashing the choice of the Francis controller - for a relay controller it is a nice design - it's just that as described in this install it appears to have been overutilized. I can count the failure modes that caused this issue on two fingers.

The only controllers (other than the DCC FK-Series) I'd recommend, personally, are DCC relay controllers if yer on a budget, or the Painless F5's if yer not.

My position has always been - if this is to be yer daily driver, the cooling system is an absolutely crucial subsystem - it's not the place one should be economizing. Indeed - it should be overbuilt.

No offence to all of the junkyard salvage efan builds - those good folks are creative and my hat's off to every single one of them. I'll just never be one of them. I've driven through death valley with loved ones on board - and I've got a real good imagimacation.

Cheers & Regards;
MGD

Silent Echo

Thanks for all the help guys. I really appreciate it. The faulty controller arrived in Pennsylvania this morning, and a new one should be in transit.

I know that you are running a very similar system, if not the exact same, Bucko. You have not had any issues with the controller fan setup?

So far my electrical can handle just about anything with the upgraded alternator, so the only thing causing me issues here is the controller. If this one too won't work for me, I will give their tech support another call and see if they can help me. If not, then I will go with the Painless Controller.

I will keep updating, and thanks again!

Tmadd1018

I'll personally back unit505 on this one, I followed his lead and use the $20 controller and went by some of his posts on pages 6 and 7 or 7 and 8 of this thread https://www.f150forum.com/f10/electric-fan-swap-152094/

AKA THE ELECTRIC FAN CONVERSION BIBLE

And I now have electric fans cooling my truck with no issues