fltdriver

You can look up the part number of the fan and the manufacturer will have it posted somewhere online. The one I have:
"Airflow Through Radiator (CFM) 2350, AMP Draw: 16.6, Free Airflow (CFM) 1600"

off 04 sebring

fltdriver

The new aftermarket fans are so much louder than OEM fans, pull one for half that and enjoy the quiet.

Not sure why everyone wants to go mark viii, these trucks don't need 3000/5000 cfm of air movement to keep them cool. Even the mviii can't pull air faster than 45mph so any highway driving is self-cooling, in town the motor isn't working hard enough, IMO, to justify that much air flow. Even if you are pulling a 4 ton load around town the mopar fan on low will cool a single row radiator more than enough as it does on mine. If you are truly worried about needing that much cooling ability going with 3 or 4 row radiator would be a better use of your money and not require the extra amps that the mviii draws, you would probably free up more amps this way as your fan would hardly ever kick on, even on my single row the fan only kicks on once in a while.

Silent Echo

I wanted the extra air flow because I wanted as much air flow as possible. I like to go overkill on my stuff because, because I do haha.

But after all the issues I have had with mine.... Do NOT get a Mark VIII fan. I think it's too powerful, and completely unnecessary.

I have been without a fan, of any kind, for 2 months now. On the freeway my temp gauge never gets above the N in NORMAL. If I'm stuck in traffic, it takes about 10-15 minutes idling to get to the R. Keep in mind, this is with a 2 core aluminum radiator. Even if my fan setup worked, it would only ever kick on once in a blue moon.

Only if you are in a huge truck, pulling fifth wheels up hills 8 hours a day, then you may need a 3000-5000 CFM fan.

unit505

Keep in mind, overkill on the coolant temperature is not good with EFI. You WILL hurt performance! Just food for thought. Just for S&G's I google cold running engine. Here's a quote for you.

Increased engine wear and corrosion due to a greater concentration of combustion acids, poorly fitting parts and excess fuel and water (condensation) in the oil.

Greatly increased fuel consumption due to car running in cold running mode with elevated injection phase/pulse width and incorrect operation of engine management and 02 sensors

Greatly increased emissions and damage to the catalytic converter and EGR valve due to the incomplete combustion of fuel

Silent Echo

Hmm... I knew running a cold engine was bad. Like all the retards that start their truck cold and immediately start revving it and driving like there is no tomorrow.

I have my engine set around 160-170°. Is that cold enough for damage?

I have no idea what thermostat I have in my truck. I believe it's just the stock temperature, but I don't know what that temp is exactly.

I have another question as well. The upper radiator hose SHOULD NOT be warm while the thermostat is closed, and should be hot when it's opened? It seems like it's hot all the time, but the thermostat only has 4K miles on it, so I don't think it's stuck open...

fltdriver

Once it heats up, from the therm opening, it won't cool back off unless you let the truck sit for a while without the engine running. Even when the thermostat closes there is coolant that came straight from the engine just sitting in the hose with no where to go.

The stock therm is 192*, most OE style replacements are 190*, I have my temp sensor for the fan set to somewhere between 175-185.

unit505

^^X2^^
Orielly offers a 165, but it is designated for racing engines. It has a predrilled bypass hole in it so it's never truly cooled. I would guess that this t-stat is not used on a FI engine. I'm running a 185 and my fan is set on at 195 and off at 185.

choate

Thanks for the info on the OEM fans being much more quiet. That is one of the reasons I am going with an e-fan is for less noise from the fan so my truck doesn't sound like a 787 jet warming up. I am thinking about the Mark VIII because it simply looks more stock to me than the duel fans plus blows lots of air if needed. Also, if it never kicks on high then it would never need the 75 amps or whatever it pulls. The RF controller has two parallel 40 amp fuses I don't see why it wouldn't work even when/if the fan kicked on high. And finally to those saying it would make the truck run too cool, I don't think a fan blowing on the motor is going to cause it to run too cool b/c it's not going to kick on until the temp is getting higher than the threshold anyways and it will shut off once it cools down. There is a local junkyard that is pretty big so I'm sure he'll have something. I'm going to give him a call some time this week. I might end up with a duel fan but I plan on asking about the MarkVII just b/c I like the looks of the set up and I see no reason why the RF controller can't handle it. I guess I might prove myself wrong but RF says they test each controller on a MarkVII before it goes out now.

fltdriver

Night and day difference, BTW, with the e-fan. First time I started it without the mech fan I thought it had died and tried turning the key again only to get the starter grind. I was truly blown away, pun intended.

Mod (Ret.)

Said I would not post anymore on this subject, but had to chime in on other related topics.

Most folks have chosen to install an efan setup to help pull more cool air to the A/C condensor during idle. My first efan conversion was on a 2005 F150. During idle situations, I would notice that the A/C was not as efficient; long idle periods in traffic would produce the feeling that the A/C was not working. As soon as my efan was installed, I no longer experienced this. Keep in mind that I lived in Texas and Florida, so those in the northern climates may not experience this.

For those reasons, I wanted a two speed fan; low for "normal" temps at idle, and a second high speed that is adjustable by temp settings by the two controllers mentioned in this thread. Again, if you live in cooler climates, a two speed fan may be considered over kill. Engine modifications, cooling system condition, and radiator size can all be considered factors as well when deciding if a single or two speed efan fan is required. Typically on a two speed fan, the low speed comes on if the engine reaches a set temperature detected by the temp sensor, and/or if the A/C is turned on (the controllers have a trigger wire that is spliced into the A/C compressor to operate the low speed). The second speed would operate if/when the engine reaches a secondary temperature, usually adjustable on the controller (again, both controllers that have been mentioned in this thread have this). This second or "high speed" is the issue here with these two controllers. The Mark VIII efan has an initial current draw to start up on the higher (secondary) speed. As mentioned by MGD in a previous post on this thread, this initial start up is higher than the 30 amp "normal" operating current, and that is why some experience it tripping the breaker (or blowing its 30 amp fuse) when it first starts up. My solution was to have my earlier made RF controller modded to add a 40 amp relay for its second speed, and this mod was only needed for the Mark VIII fan. The DCC controller did not require this mod; it takes into account the initial high amp draw during the secondary speed start up. Again, only the Mark VIII fan that I know of has this issue. Single speed fans, or dual single speed fan type conversions would not experience this.

When choosing an efan, you decide if a single speed efan is to be used, and then choose a controller for it. I'd say that if you stay with a single speed efan, the two mentioned controllers will then be overkill, as the models mentioned are for two speed efans; they would work for a single speed efan, but there are less expensive controllers for a single speed efan.